This is almost better than Santa Claus. Right around this time of year, for two months and rarely longer, there is seasonal (read tomato) pizza at Frank Pepe’s.

While we can all discuss, argue, wheedle or whine, I decided that nobody makes better pizza than Pepe’s. And while others say only the original Pepe’s in New Haven is the only great Pepe’s pizzas, I say you are wrong. All the Pepe’s use coal-fired ovens, all the bottom crusts are blistered and the few toppings (clam, bacon, pepperoni, veggies) are just fine.

But the seasonal pizza, just a little cheese, fresh (mostly local) tomatoes and a few shards of basil, is nirvana. I just went to the new Pepe’s in Warwick, Rhode Island, twice in one week. The place is gorgeous, the waitstaff amazingly nice and the service quick (because when you smell the aroma, you can barely wait to eat your pizza). As for waiting in line, a problem in New Haven and sometimes at Mohegan Sun, we were seated right away. Hurry before the word gets out.

Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana

21 Universal Blvd., Warwick

(401) 825-7776

Additional locations in West Hartford, Mohegan Sun and Waterbury; Chestnut Hill, Mass.; and Yonkers, N.Y.