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    Saturday, May 04, 2024

    Lee's Kitchen: Celebrating the season of fresh corn

    Writing is a solitary pursuit, but, unless you write science fiction or fantasy stories, you become one with your protagonists, whether victims or predators.

    If you write nonfiction, however, and I consider food writing nonfiction, you picture yourself with your readers and, in most cases, you have to go out to learn what you eat, what to shop for and what to cook.

    I have been writing about food for decades. Much of that time, I have been writing in New England, some in Massachusetts and, during the best time, on the Connecticut shoreline. For the past three weeks, I have been just incommunicado, first for two days in the hospital getting a new hip, the rest of the two weeks at home.

    As I sit at my desk working on my computer, I realize that I have missed you more than anything. When my marvel of a daughter left for California, I was bereft. And scared. My appetite is just coming back, so I lived on eggplant parm my daughter made (what a dish, recipe coming in a few weeks), Chinese takeout my friends bought at Golden Lantern in Uncasville, and leftovers from Sneekers (chicken and penne) and meals from Olio (mini hamburger salad and veal piccata).

    I didn’t cook for two weeks, but I am now.

    Whittle’s (and probably lots of local farms) has Silver Queen corn. This recipe, plus fresh local sliced tomatoes, means I am happy once again.

    Corn Cacio e Pepe

    From Bon Appetit, June/July 2019

    Serves 4

    16 ounces gemelli, orecchiette or other medium pasta

    3 cups corn kernels (from 3 large ears)

    8 ounces aged Pecorino Romano or Parmesan, finely grated (about 2 cups), plus more for serving

    2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving

    Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente; add corn about 30 seconds before pasta is done cooking. Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta cooking liquid. Return pasta and corn to the pot.

    While pasta is cooking, toss cheese and 2 teaspoon peppers in a medium bowl to combine. Add one-third cup cold water and use a fork to mash mixture into thick pasta (try to get it as smooth as possible). Still mashing, add more water, a tablespoon at a time, until paste is about the consistency of cream cheese.

    Add cheese mixture to pot with pasta and corn. Using a rubber spatula, toss pasta until cooked; the cheese mixture will be too thick to form a sauce at this point. Tossing constantly, add reserved pasta cooking liquid a splash at a time, until a glossy sauce forms. (It should still be fairly thick.)

    Transfer pasta to a large bowl and top with more cheese and a few additional grinds of pepper.

    On the Side: Blue Bunny mint chocolate chip mini cones

    Over the past few weeks, before I got my appetite back, my daughter did everything she could think of to get me interested in food. Darcy cooked for me and I ate, but not too much and not too often. I really didn't want breakfast at all, and by the time I was hungry, it was 2 in the afternoon. I ate what I wanted, but by the time I was done, I was thinking about when I could take a pain pill and go to sleep.

    Everyday she went to the market, bringing me boxes of Entenmann chocolate donuts. Two boxes are still in the freezer. But one day she gave me a Blue Bunny ice cream mint chocolate chip mini swirls. Each chocolate cookie cone was no bigger than my index finger, filled with mint chocolate chip ice cream (my favorite flavor), tiny scoop covered with a chocolate shell and topped with something crunchy. At 129 calories, it was tasty and just all I really wanted. She bought it at Stop & Shop and they are available in other flavors. I think I may have one right now.

    Lee White lives in Groton. Email her at leeawhite@aol.com.

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