Luxuriating in lunch, and the experience, at the Ocean House

March 19, 2015 12:00 am • Last Updated: March 23, 2015 12:10 pm

By Jill Blanchette

My husband and I first visited Seasons at the Ocean House around the holidays, when my brother and his wife were in town.

Assuming we couldn't afford dinner there, we went for lunch. We hoped for extravagance that we could afford, and without the flocks of summer visitors, we thought a noontime meal at Watch Hill's iconic hotel would fit the bill.

We were not disappointed.

Our charming, welcoming hostess took our coats, validated our valet ticket and led us to the far dining room where linen-draped tables and brown, woven chairs, complete with pillows, are surrounded by Block Island and Long Island sounds. Through the wall of windows, there was Block, sparkling on the horizon. And over there, the tip of Long Island and the Montauk light.

We were offered water, still or sparkling, and my brother ordered the wine, which we enjoyed with a basket of hot, crusty bread as we perused the menu.

My sister-in-law ordered a salad but I barely noticed because I was too absorbed in my choice, a Northeast Family Farms hamburger, $22, with bacon marmalade, red onion, lettuce, tomato, on an "Everything Pretzel Roll" from Foremost Bakery - an artisan shop in Providence - to which I added cheddar cheese. If a burger can be worth $22, this one was. The meat was so flavorful and juicy, cooked to a perfect medium rare, just as I had ordered. The roll was soft, yet resilient. The toppings were crisp and complementary, both in flavor and proportion. The accompanying fries were crunchy and salty on the outside and creamy in the middle.

My brother and husband each ordered the duck club sandwich - smoked duck breast, bacon, charred romaine lettuce, tomato and cranberry aioli, also on a pretzel roll, $18. Both pronounced it delicious, if a bit messy. Where the roll stood up to my burger, it was foiled by the moisture from the lettuce, tomato and aioli, and perhaps the juiciness of the duck itself.

But no one was complaining.

We laughed, ate, drank and enjoyed the hospitality and service provided by our lovely young waitress. Later, we marveled at the décor of the restrooms and we strolled the grounds to the frozen beach, not yet covered with snow.

All the while, we were made to feel legitimately welcome by the hotel's crackerjack staff.

Next, my husband and I went for lunch in the Seasons bar, a cozy, wood-paneled area, complete with fireplace, right off the lobby. A seat here comes with views of the water and the open kitchen. It's easy to eavesdrop as the food is prepared.

I took the bartender's advice and ordered a 5-Star Cocktail, sparkling wine with wild hibiscus syrup, $15. It was light and not too sweet, crisp and delicious. My husband chose a Two Roads Ol' Factory, $8, one of the six beers on tap.

I resisted ordering another burger, instead choosing the roasted beet salad with baby greens, goat cheese-stuffed dates, prosciutto and horseradish vinaigrette, $14.

I also ordered the kale salad with Brussels sprouts, honey poached cranberries, almonds, goat cheese and maple mustard vinaigrette, $14, to which I added salmon, $12. My husband opted for a grilled flank steak sandwich, $20, with onion marmalade, sweet and sour peppers, roasted tomato aioli and Parmesan frites.

The beets were well prepared, firm yet tender, and who couldn't love a prosciutto-wrapped, goat cheese-filled dates? But there was no sign of horseradish or even vinaigrette. The beets themselves were earthy but bland.

The same could be said of the kale salad. The ingredients were fresh and beautifully presented, but there was no sign of the maple mustard vinaigrette. The swollen cranberries were sharply sour, without a hint of sweetness. Overall, the salad ate very dry and bland. The salmon was the highlight, nicely grilled with crispy brown edges yet moist and tender inside.

On my husband's sandwich, tender, juicy slices of flank steak were served on a deli roll. The roasted red pepper strips were fresh and flavorful, and the onion and aioli tied the whole thing together. However, the frites - French fries - were not hot. In fact, they were barely warm. And there's nothing like lukewarm fries to remind you how much you're paying for lunch.

We consoled ourselves with the dessert menu and ordered chocolate cornets with smoked chocolate mousse, Earl Gray marshmallow and graham cracker ice cream, $12. What arrived was a S'More gone crazy, the smoke of the campfire infused in the mousse that filled a duo of dark chocolate cones, each capped with the toasted, tea-flavored marshmallow and nestled next to a quenelle of buttery ice cream, the transformed graham cracker. It was like eating a decadent piece of art.

When it comes to dining in this tourist-driven region, winter is the perfect time to visit summer hotspots like Ocean House, and lunch is usually the most affordable way to do it. But let's be clear. Affordability is relative. You'll spend as much here for lunch as you would elsewhere for a fancy dinner. The bottom line on our second visit was $111.24, before tip.

So if the money will bother you, don't go. But if you want to see how the other half lives, treat yourself to a civilized lunch.

After all, the staff, to a person, making you feel like they're maintaining the view and amenities just for you? Priceless.

J.BLANCHETTE@THEDAY.COM

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