It’s seems to me that “sports bars,” originally, were nothing more than neighborhood joints where foam-mouthed fans of one squadron or another would gather because the team’s games were religiously shown on one or two rabbit-eared televisions suspended in the corner. Everyone knew one another — including staff — and, during game time, maybe there were free wings or a big vat of chili and there might be specials on draft pints of water-flavored lagers like Tacklebox Lite.

Then, Marketing People, sniffing out profit potential like plague rats chewing on the toes of winos, sensed opportunity and took over with national franchise concepts. The gimmicks soon took over: exiguously-clad waitresses, DJs blaring bad music in misguided attempts to provide a “party soundtrack” experience in support of the game-watching experience and, of course, Wal Mart-sized floor plans with a 1:1 giant screen television-to-customer ratio. You know: Hooters. Buffalo Wild Wings. Champps.

The latest of these to hit our area is the Monaco-sized Arooga’s Grill House & Sports Bar on Route 32 hard to the Mohegan Sun Casino — which makes sense because the chain has entered a partnership with the tribe.

Anyhoo, yes, Arooga’s is massive: a huge bar area and an even-huger, three-level dining area — and the whole thing is a day-glo example of Sports Bar Overdose. Here’s the thing, though. As one of the bartenders confided on the first of my three visits, “It’s bar food. But it’s really GOOD bar food.”

Pick just about anything on the vast, vast menu — I’ve read books with “Tolstoy” on the spine that are more concise — and I think you’ll really enjoy it. I wouldn’t eat at Arooga’s frequently if you’re trying to lose weight. Otherwise, there are numerous options in such categories as appetizers, wings, soups and salads, burgers, hoagies and sandwiches, strombolis and flatbread pizzas, combos and ribs, desserts, and on and on.

Oh, and a few things to know going in: the staff is exceedingly attentive and eager to please. There’s an excellent and extensive tap list including local brews. And — I’m sure this was not intentional — the in-house music somehow included “Taking Care of Business” on each of my three visits. Ordinarily, that’d put me off my feed, but I persevered and I’m glad I did.

Okay, let’s talk food.

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[naviga:li]Amish Pierogies ($6.99) — Bite-sized pillows of fluffy mashed potatoes and cheese quilted in chewy dough and tenderly accented with a sweet chili/sour cream dipping concoction.[/naviga:li]

[naviga:li]Soft Pretzels and Beer Cheese ($7.99) — If you’d never set foot in a place like Arooga’s for any reason, THIS is the appetizer to make you reconsider. Warm, soft, elongated pretzels glistening with salt crystals — delicious unto themselves — with a small container of addictive sauce. You can taste the beer component in the gooey cheese. Truly amazing.[/naviga:li]

[naviga:li]Pretzel Dog Starter ($9.79) — A butterflied Black Angus wiener, blanketed with cheese and crispy bacon, is then deep-fried in pretzel dough and sliced into pop-in-the-mouth nuggets.[/naviga:li]

[naviga:li]Wings — There are so many rubs, sauces and prep variations (fried, boneless, grilled) that it’d take a degree in linear algebra to break it all down. I tried five of the boneless with a chili lime rub and “Arooga style” (nestled over a bed of fresh-cut fries, $7.99). The chicken was moist and the exterior, delightfully brittle and rich with the seasoning, provided a fine contrast.[/naviga:li]

[naviga:li]All Natural Black Bean Burger ($9.99) — Vegan AND Kosher, for those keeping score at home. The titular beans, rolled oats, panko bread crumbs, red and green bell peppers, cilantro, parsley and hot sauce! Not pureed gunk, either. You could see the veggie components and the flavor was wonderful. In support were lettuce, tomatoes, guacamole, pepper jack cheese and non-dairy but tasty chipotle sour cream.[/naviga:li]

[naviga:li]Buffalo Chicken Stromboli ($9.99) — This came as a recommendation from the bartender and he was absolutely right. Shredded breast meat, Mozzarella and a rich wing dip — all baked in a browned pizza crust. Simple but remarkable![/naviga:li]

[naviga:li]Carolina Pulled Pork Sandwich ($9.99) — A proud mound of ripped, smoky pork shoulder with an astounding, tangy, sour-in-a-good-way sauce ladled on a fresh brioche bun. I asked for a slice of Swiss to enhance the crunch of a layer of coleslaw. Really, really good.[/naviga:li]

[naviga:li]Mac ‘n’ Cheese Burger ($11.99) — Oh, the glories of when you combine two distinctly flavored entrees between bread slices. A generous hunk of expertly grilled beef in ballet with buttery spiral pasta and actual cheese — no orange powder![/naviga:li]

[naviga:li]And just to prove I’m not on the Arooga payroll, avoid the Lump Crab Cake Sandwich ($12.99) — there were no discernible “lumps” anywhere. The cake was soggy and the crab and Old Bay seasoning were barely noticeable.[/naviga:li]

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That was the only less-than-delightful experience — and the good news is that there is so much more of the Arooga menu to explore. 

Arooga’s Grill House & Sports Bar

32 Sandy Desert Road, Uncasville

(860) 886-9464, aroogas.com/route-32-uncasville

Cuisine: Proudly ambitious “bar food” menu

Atmosphere: As though the Arooga folks hired Las Vegas to design a sports bar

Service: On point — wait staff and bartenders are constantly helpful and attentive

Prices: Moderate across the board; the whole menu fits between $4.99 and $20.99

Hours: 11 a.m.-1 p.a. Sun-Thurs., 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Fri. and Sat.

Handicap access: Spacious and navigable

Credit cards: All majors

Reservations: Can get busy on weekend nights but there’s usually room to wait in the bar