On the frequently changing menu of local restaurant choices, perhaps no location has seen as much recent upheaval as 66 Water St., on the harbor in Stonington Borough.

Longtime occupant Skipper's Dock closed in 2013 when its lease was not renewed. In early summer 2014, a new American seafood restaurant called Swooner took its place but closed at the end of the season. This summer, there is Breakwater, the latest addition to local restaurateur Jon Kodama's stable, which includes Steak Loft, Ten Clams and Go Fish in Olde Mistick Village.

But even as management has changed, the location's primary appeal has remained the same. The restaurant's deck sticks out into the harbor, which surely must be among the most picturesque in New England. On a recent visit for an early Saturday dinner, a parade of vessels positioned themselves to tie up at the new dock, an activity that often makes for fine entertainment.

A table here also affords a view of harbor action — the comings and goings of fishing vessels from Stonington's fleet, various yachts, sailing clubs and schools, and even swimmers — as well as a long view into Long Island Sound. The constant cooling breeze must take the sting out of even the most hot, humid afternoon.

It's a rare, peaceful setting in an otherwise tourism-fueled frenzy that is summer on southern New England's shore.

Breakwater's menu is small, its offerings predominantly seafood, prepared simply: raw, broiled, grilled, roasted or fried. There's also a seafood pasta, seafood rolls, a selection of burgers and tacos, and entrees — one each — of steak, ribs and chicken. And it's a la carte, so if you want mashed potatoes or rice with your meal, you order them separately, $3.50 each. The same applies to the vegetables, either lightly steamed or grilled.

The wine list, however, is long. Fourteen beers are offered on tap, including several local brews, with 16-ounce portions ranging from $4.25 to $6.75, with another 21 in bottles or cans.

We ordered two Sam Adams seasonals on draft, and my dinner companion decided to begin his meal with potato soup, $4.50, one of the day's specials. It arrived thick, creamy and cheesy, and was pronounced delicious.

I started with a plate of roasted clams, $15. These were delivered piping hot, a generous array of 12 with a single slice of bread that was lightly toasted but quite sodden with garlicky butter. The clams were rich, and the larger ones were tender, flavored with bacon and buttery crumbs.

Next came the tacos. We chose fish but chicken and steak are also available. They arrived on a stand that held them upright and were accompanied by a fresh pico de gallo, sour cream, and a black bean relish. Although my fellow diner pronounced them bland, I thought they were delicious — if a bit messy — generously stuffed with tender, white fish that had been fried crisp, and the right amount of lettuce, tomato and shredded cheese. The pico and beans brought good, traditional taco flavor to this filling duo, a bargain at $12.

However, the sweet potato fries, $3.50, were less successful. Their flavor was good, but the thick, waffle cut left them less than crisp, and as they cooled, they became soggy.

My entrée was the grilled medley, $17, which included fish, shrimp, scallops and calamari. The plate arrived with another slice of the garlicky, butter-soaked toast and a wedge of lemon along side a small salmon filet, three large shrimp, three scallops and three whole calamari, all sporting grill marks and wading in a pool of citrus butter.

The calamari and shrimp were overcooked and rather bland — both would have benefitted from a pre-grill marinade. But the salmon and scallops bordered on perfection. The salmon had a beautiful, brown crust surrounding its moist, juicy center. So good. The scallops were melt-in-your-mouth tender, with a delicately sweet, briny flavor that belied their no doubt recent demise.

My side of asparagus, $3.50, arrived with grill marks but not much heat or flavor.

We forgot to save room for dessert, but we could have chosen from among the likes of key lime pie, blueberry bread pudding and fried banana cheesecake, $6.50 each.

All in all, the view from a chair on the deck at Breakwater is in itself reason to go. The menu presents enough options to satisfy most diners, and the staff is pleasant, eager to please and right on top of the service.

One note about parking: the Breakwater lot is small and shared with the Inn at Stonington. Although we were there for an early meal, no spaces were left. But no worries. There's plenty of parking on Water Street and at the town dock, which requires before- and after-dinner walks through the borough, a delightful bracket to any meal.

j.blanchette@theday.com

Twitter: @2Petunia

Breakwater

66 Water St., Stonington

(860) 415-8123; breakwaterstonington.com

Cuisine: Mainly seafood, but also salads, burgers, chicken and steak

Atmosphere: Beachy casual

Service: Friendly and efficient

Prices: A la carte menu; burgers, tacos, seafood rolls, $9.50-$17.50; entrees, from $10 for fried calamari to $22.50 for seafood pasta; sides, vegetables or starches, $3.50 each

Hours: Lunch and dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Credit Cards: Yes

Reservations: No, but they advise that you call ahead if you have a party of six or more 

Handicapped access: Bar, dining areas and restrooms are all on one level. Access the deck from a ramp from the parking lot.