You say you want a Noodle Revolution?

December 09, 2015 11:00 pm • Last Updated: December 10, 2015 9:25 am

By Alex Nunes

I admit that when I first drove past the new Noodle Revolution at 87 Oak St. in Westerly, I thought the concept was maybe a little gimmicky. Noodles? Doesn't this town already have two Thai restaurants and several Chinese options? Could an Asian fusion place really add that much to the culinary scene of Rhode Island's southernmost locale?

Turns out, it can. Oh, it can...Revolution is in the air in Westerly, baby. And it smells like noodles!

You won't see many options on the menu at Noodle Revolution that surprise you: dumplings ($9), beef pho ($12), tom yum soup ($13), drunken noodles ($13 or $16, depending on size), and Pad Thai (see drunken noodle price). What's remarkable about Noodle Revolution is the quality of the ingredients and the pitch-perfect execution.

For instance, the Thai charred beef salad ($13) is a flavor explosion equivalent to someone blowing air into a brown paper bag and popping it in your face. The beef is thinly shaved and tender, but it's almost overshadowed by the spicy, citrusy, somewhat minty mix of kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, and chili-lime dressing over spring mix, red onion and red and yellow grape tomatoes.

With all that dynamism, it seems almost dangerous to squirt the side lemon wedge over this appetizer, but it's well worth it.

Dumplings ($9) come six to an order, steamed or pan-fried, with a choice of chicken cilantro or veggies, and served with a lemon-soy dip. Fresh pickled kimchi can be added for a spicy probiotic blitz for $1 more.

I'm a fried guy myself, but I realize the risk it comes with: receiving an oily, drippy dumpling. Here, the finger-sized treats are supple, chewy and light, with distinct but not overpowering undertones of soy and ginger.

Noodles come with a mix-and-match list of noodle types, sauces, proteins, and spice levels. There are wide, flat rice noodles, the thin rice stick variety, and even fettuccine, linguine and spaghetti.

I've tried all three sauce options, and picking a favorite is not really possible. Drunken is the spiciest and comes with chili, garlic, Chinese broccoli (a vegetable with a spinach shape and texture but broccoli bitterness), and basil. There's also the black noodle variety with eggs, Chinese broccoli and sweet soy. Bangkok Street Pad Thai comes with tofu, beansprouts, eggs, peanuts, and cilantro and a lime wedge on the side.

There are standard chicken (minced or sliced), beef, and organic tofu with seasonal vegetables protein options, as well as shrimp (an additional $2 or $3 depending on portion size), Rhode Island calamari (see shrimp price), Stonington scallops (plus $6 or $9), seafood combo (see scallops price), and fresh lobster meat (an additional $11 or $18).

On spice level, there's mild, medium, and "hot-is-hot," which is hot but by no means fire-breathing.

I've tried chicken, organic tofu with seasonal veggies, calamari, and Stonington scallops. Each is well prepared: the chicken is neither chewy nor stringy; calamari is moist; and the scallops are nicely caramelized. The tofu is standard but good, and the mixed veggies are an impressive who's who: cauliflower, squashes, snap peas, baby corn and lotus root.

In addition to the noodle dishes, there are also a nice variety of rice plates: Thai basil beef ($12), seafood in pineapple ($18), and a drunken rice pot ($13). There's also a "Revolution" section of the menu with two items: the Revolution Taco ($9) with spiced pork, pineapple and cilantro on a corn tortilla, and a Revolution Burger ($9) with the standard ingredients of beef patty, lettuce, tomato and American cheese, but also the option to add a farm fried egg, kimchi, bacon, or grilled onion for $1.

The atmosphere at Noodle Revolution is simple and charming; there are red-and-white, picnic-style tablecloths, plain white walls free of photos and paintings, and a small candle at the center of each table. The servers are friendly and warm.

A note on price: While no single item is too expensive, with the various add ons, you can quickly find yourself racking up a somewhat pricey meal (I myself have spent $70+ on a single takeout order).

Noodle Revolution's location is the old home of the Oak St. B&B burger joint, which has since relocated to the riverside spot vacated by Mermaid Cafe and reopened as B&B Dockside — certainly a serendipitous series of events that has generated a new gem in Westerly's ever-evolving, powerhouse panoply of culinary options.