For its size, New London has a more-than-respectable list of "go to" restaurants for Special Occasions. Don't want to leave anyone out, but Tony D's, Gaspar's, Dev's On Bank, Daddy Jack's, The Bistro on Bank, the Recovery Room and On the Waterfront all do very nice and competitive work.

Of course, at this stage in my life, what we call a Special Occasion might not resonate with those of you celebrating a college graduation or a job promotion or an anniversary.

No, for us, there are no special occasions. We are sad people for whom maximum exultation results when:  A) the car started! B) The runny-nose allergy streak seems to have petered out! C) "How did THAT check not bounce?!" And to commemorate such things, what we can typically afford is the Taco Bell Dollar-Menu Six-Cheese Chicken and Fake-Steak Burrito Special.

However, when long-absent friends recently visited from Texas, Taco Bell wasn't going to cut it — and we took them for an evening at On the Waterfront.

It was pretty tremendous.

For one, the restaurant's main dining room was booked for a private party, and we had no reservations — but the staff was quick and efficient and created space where, before, there wasn't any.

As with both dining rooms at OTW, the views of the Thames River and a variety of docked boats and postcardy piers are bigger than life through huge windows. The atmosphere is relaxed and gently refined, with dark woods and a mellow gold-and-white color scheme. There's also a very popular bar area where regulars gather to watch sports and keep up with community gossip.

Divided roughly into sections for Appetizers, Steak & Poultry, Pasta Dishes, Dockside and Sandwiches, the On the Waterfront menu doesn't get particularly adventurous, but the bases are solidly covered, and they prepare and present their food wonderfully.

To kick off the meal, a basket of warm house bread and a delicious butter-based spread was very popular. We carried on with lobster bisque ($8.50), luxuriating in its plush texture, an abundance of torn lobster chunks, and a one-two cream/cognac punch. I think there should be a fountain of it here at The Day.

Noank oysters ($2.75 each) were served on the shell in a tin tray of crushed ice and with lemon and a mild house cocktail sauce. They're on the small-to-medium side, with an immediate sweet bite as they touch the tongue — followed almost immediately by a saltwater tang that hovers pleasantly. Weird: Only after I swallow the oyster do I then dip the tiny tines of the fork into the cocktail sauce and place it delicately on my tongue as a sort of aftertaste equivalent of an exclamation mark.

For the main courses, all manners of fun ensued. Eggplant Rollatini ($17 plus $2.99 for small house or Caesar salad) was a huge construct seemingly the size of a grave mound. The 'plant, tender without having been beaten into submission, was stuffed with ricotta cheese and spinach, topped with mozzarella and tart marinara sauce — and all served over perfectly chewy linguine. Greatness — and the side salad, with romaine, onion, cukes, tomatoes, olives and parmesan, was a nice counterpoint, with its delicate vinaigrette.

Seafood was significantly represented by Pistachio Crusted Norwegian Salmon ($23). This was a substantial filet, the surface of which featured the titular nuts marinated in something with a light mustard — possibly even with a bit of maple syrup. We couldn't figure out the precise recipe, but, in conjunction with a punchy balsamic reduction, a lot of good things were going on. Too, the salmon kept a firm anchor on the proceedings, and we never forgot the fish was star of the show.

Another triumph was Filet Medallions and Shrimp ($28). Two four-ounce discs of beautiful steak, lightly seared on the surface and pink inside and each topped with a large grilled shrimp, offered a robust collision of texture and flavor, and a drizzling of velvety lobster sauce was a clever touch.

Only the Cajun Fish & Chips ($14) was underwhelming. There were two huge, tasty pieces of cod with a brittle crust, and plenty of thick cut fries and a hearty coleslaw for company. The problem arose because someone in the kitchen apparently thought "Cajun" just means a very heavy hand with a container of Tony Chacherie seasoning.

For dessert, the four of us decided to genteely split a slice of Pistachio Cake ($7.95, from the nearby Cake Lady), and it nearly resulted in a fight to see who got more. With an almond cream at the heart of the moist structure, and a nutty icing of glory, it was irresistible.

A note: if you drop by for lunch, The Waterfront Cheeseburger ($11) and the Chicken Pesto Sandwich ($11) are can't-miss options.

On the Waterfront

250 Pequot Ave., New London

(860) 444-2800

Cuisine: High-end Italian and seafood offerings

Atmosphere: Comfy but elegant and perfect whether just-off-the-beach or prom night. The dining rooms have fine dining ambience and the water/boat views can seduce anyone.

Service: Very efficient and conscientious even at peak times. They found seating for us without a reservation and while a huge private party was happening in the main dining room.

Prices: Moderate to expensive, with sandwiches and appetizers hovering around $9 - $11 and main entrees ranging from $15-$29

Hours: 3-9 p.m. Tues., 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Thurs. and Sun., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat.

Handicap access: A few steps up at the front door but spacious room otherwise

Reservations: A good idea for evening dining

Credit cards: All majors