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    Friday, May 10, 2024

    Weekend dining options: From lobster bisque to quesadillas to patra

    The cheese tortellini salad with lemon basil vinaigrette at Savour in Centerbrook is anything but ordinary. (Marisa Nadolny/The Day)
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    Caffe NV

    57 Boston Post Road, Waterford

    (860) 444-8111

    This small, wonderfully charming spot is welcome, at any time the owners deem it necessary, to become my living room. I could happily luxuriate in the comfort, enjoying their creative fusion of Mediterranean flavors, ad infinitum.

    If you're lucky, you might find gems on the daily specials sheet that would include the crustacean-happy crab and lobster bisque ($4.95 cup, $6.95 bowl) or the comfort-food delight of a meatloaf sandwich ($10.95 with homemade chips or pasta salad) that boasted a slab of the mellow groundbeef/crumbs mixture, tangy cheese and — inspired! — Thousand Island dressing on a sourdough roll.

    From the regular menu, the stunningly original, tart/sweet Fig & Mascarpone Bundles ($10.95), basking in a basalmic reduction, work magically as an appetizer or dessert. Or both. The Penne Garbonza ($18.95) was a heap of toothsome pasta serenaded by a wine/lemon/garlic sauce and topped with cherry tomatoes, feta, basil, red onion, fresh artichoke hearts and, of course, garbonaza beans.

    — Rick Koster

    Savour Cafe & Bakery

    90 Main St, Centerbrook

    (860) 662-4438

    Through the years, I’ve identified a little mental map of places I like to call Little Slices of Foodie Heaven. They are either cafes, gourmet markets, or a combination of the two that make it possible for me to eat well and/or not cook.

    The newest addition to the list is Savour in Centerbrook, the charming little village in Essex not far from the Ivoryton Playhouse. While its rotating menu of meals to go isn’t as wide as, say, Simon’s in Westbrook, the quality of eats available makes up for smaller selection. It was Savour’s beef stew that drew me to the little bakery and cafe for a second visit. The third, fourth, and fifth visits have followed, and with them my assurances that the sandwich menu is not to be missed (average price $9.95), the tortellini pasta salad ($8.95 a pound) is delicious, and the bakery is a wonderful thing. And now that I know breakfast sandwiches are available ($5.95 on beautiful brioche or a buttery croissant) in the mornings, visits six, seven, and eight are sure to follow.

    — Marisa Nadolny

    East Coast Taco

    51 West Main St., Niantic

    (860) 739-8770

    Speaking recently in an interview to a now-local musician who moved from Texas, we had the requisite side-conversation comparing the food up here to back home. Both of us are damned happy by many of the local specialities — particularly chowder, grinders and lobster rolls — but he lamented a lack of barbecue and Tex-Mex.

    I think I did him a favor by telling him about East Coast Taco. While their New England take on Mexican doesn't resonate as particularly authentic, dishes like the tartly flavorful veggie chili quesadilla ($7.50) and a beautifully dense and sneaky-hot white cheese queso ($4.50 with toasty chips) are competitive anytime. And, lord, the unexpected brisket plate ($8.50) was a stunning bargain. Shredded, tasty, lean brisket — possibly baked rather than smoked? — was heaped on a cake of moist cornbread and augmented by earthy rice and beans. So good.

    — Rick Koster

    Shakahari

    1458 Boston Post Road, Old Saybrook

    (860) 876-2697

    The best food-review missions, for me, are those during which I learn something new AND eat something new. We can check off both boxes after my recent trip to Shakahari in Old Saybrook.

    This vegetarian eatery offers a carefully curated menu of “home-style” Indian fare. The menu is shorter than many you might encounter at other Indian eateries, because “it’s about quality, not quantity,” according to a post on Shakahari’s Facebook page. It’s a good strategy.

    We spent far too much time deliberating over what to order from the list of about six entrees currently on offer, because they all sounded terrific. The ones we ended up with exceeded expectations, and we can’t wait to return to continue our research mission. As for the new food we tried, I can add patra ($5) to my list of Cool Things You Never Thought Would Be Delicious. This unusual appetizer is made from colacasia leaves rolled in chickpea flour and tossed with palate-pleasing spices and sugar. Just. Try. It. Then order a bowl of daal ($5), a delicious elixir that will cures what ails you.

    — Marisa Nadolny

    A hot bowl of daal at Shakahari in Old Saybrook. (Marisa Nadolny/The Day)
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