Every field of endeavor has its own jargon, and the world of land care is no exception.

Take, for instance, two seasonal terms: Overseeding and dormant seeding. Both happen in the last three months of the year, but overseeding usually occurs from Sept. 1 to Oct. 10. Dormant seeding happens after Nov.1. Both are useful practices in their context.

Overseeding is the helpful practice of broadcasting fresh seed into established turf. Since mowing inhibits seed production, a conventional lawn does little or no self-seeding. Eventually, an old lawn has trouble competing with weeds and dealing with other lawn stresses.

According to Bill Hart, president of Hart Seed in Wethersfield, if you do not know the grass species in your lawn, you can assume it is probably a mixture of Kentucky blue grass, perennial rye grass, and fescue in this area.

As for selecting new seed, “We tell people to choose based on the availability of irrigation,” he says. If you don’t have an irrigation system, “Choose a mix of creeping red fescue or chewings fescue, turf-type perennial rye, and common Kentucky bluegrass.” He recommends about one-third each. “These are all pretty tolerant of dry conditions.”

If you have an irrigation system, you can choose some of the improved Kentucky bluegrass varieties. “These will be named varieties,” says Hart. Kentucky bluegrass is well liked for its spreading capabilities and its dark blue-green colors, but it is a comparatively thirsty grass.

Before overseeding, mow the lawn at the lowest setting to expose as much bare soil as possible. One of the best times to overseed a lawn is after aeration and de-thatching. It doesn’t hurt to spread a thin layer of compost, no more than ½”, or another source of organic matter such as granulated worm castings or compost tea or another source of microbial activity.

Fertilizers should only be used after a soil test shows the need.

Overseed a lawn at about half the rate of new seeding, usually about two and one-half pounds per 1,000 square feet. Read the seed package for more specific recommendations. Follow the watering instructions on the package, too.

Dormant seeding is less well known than overseeding. It can be used for lawns and some vegetables, but it is especially favored for creating new meadow and wildflower plantings. It is the practice of spreading wildflower and warm season grass seeds after frost, mimicking what happens in nature. If you prepare the soil ahead of time, dormant can be done anytime from frost until the snow cover is well established.

“Especially if you’re seeding with warm season grasses (such as Little Blue Stem), wait until there’s no chance of germination in the current year,” says Bill Hart. “Broadcast the seed after its cold. Nature slowly breaks down the seed coat and works the seed into the soil.”

If seeding onto bare soil, it is best to cover with straw (not hay). There’s no need to water a dormant seeding. Winter weather usually takes care of the moisture.

One beauty of dormant seeding is that you can gather flower seeds locally during October and add them to the grass mix. By gathering seeds of native wildflowers, you ensure the spread of local plant families, called local ecotypes. This has special value for native birds and pollinators.

At the same time, you may add some hardy annuals to the mix. Annual flowers are sure to deliver color in the first year, where perennials may take several. One exception among the perennials is native green-eyed coneflower (Rudbeckia laciniata).

We have only a few native annual flowers in southern New England, however. One is partridge pea (Chamaecrista fasciculata), a vigorous self-seeder that keeps bees happy in August and September. There are a few native annuals from the broader region that provide color every year, such as brown-eyed susan (Rudbeckia triloba). Poppies, though not native, also offer winter-hardy seeds that reliably deliver lots of colors.

Whether seeding a fresh lawn, or overseeding an established lawn, or dormant-seeding next year’s flowering meadow, enjoy!

Kathy Connolly is a landscape designer, garden writer and speaker from Old Saybrook. Website: www.SpeakingofLandscapes.com. Email: Kathy@SpeakingofLandscapes.com.