Supanya and Todd Unzel arrived from Davenport, Iowa, early in 2010 to assume ownership of Jasmine Thai Restaurant and Sushi Bar in downtown Westerly, renaming it simply "Siam."

I never visited during the restaurant's original run, but the couple and their team appear to have effected a seamless transition. Although a new team is in charge of the kitchen, the familiar offerings of Thai top hits, and a small selection of sushi and sashimi, remains largely intact. The kitchen produces more-than-competent and sometimes very good variations on classic Thai dishes.

Appetizers include standards like Thai egg rolls, Crab Rangoon, and vegetarian fresh rolls, all $4.95. Soups and salads include favorites like peppery Tom Yum (Thai hot and sour soup) and Tom Kla (Tom Yum fortified with coconut milk), both for $3.95. Som Tom is the classic green papaya salad ($7.95), and there's an alluring seafood salad ($9.95), comprised of a variety of cooked seafood tossed with onion and lemongrass in a spicy lime sauce.

When I asked our server if Siam had ever served Larb, the incendiary minced chicken, basil, and chili salad, she informed us no, it was too hot. Customers might not be so eager to sample more fiery recipes. So rather than mourn the absence of unusual dishes, we made the most of the classics.

On our short trip down memory lane, my partner and I chose a superb order of grilled chicken satay, four plump slices of chicken breast on a bed of onion and cucumber and served with an irresistible peanut sauce ($5.95). The execution of this popular South Asian street food at Siam could hardly have been surpassed, especially for the price. Paired with a salad, the satay would make a substantial main course.

Fried Basil Rolls ($5.95) were on par with the satay, in preparation, ingredients, and presentation. These are more delicate than egg rolls or fresh rolls … slim, tightly wrapped, and crunchy rolls stuffed with minced ground pork, basil, and vegetables and served with a sweet/sour dipping sauce.

In the starters category, you will also find Heavenly Shrimp, wrapped in egg noodles, fried, and served with a sweet/sour sauce, and Curry Puffs, fried pastries filled with pork, potatoes, and curry seasoning. Both are $5.95.

Pad Thai and Drunken Noodles can each be had for $9.95. Siam also offers Thai, basil, and pineapple fried rice for $8.95, and there are a series of less usual chef specials, including stir-fried shiitake and asparagus in black pepper sauce ($10.95) and fried grouper served in a ginger-wine sauce ($14.95).

Four classic Thai curries, including Red, Green, Panang, and Massaman, each with its own distinguishing traits, come under the heading "Curry Pot" and can be ordered with meat, poultry, seafood, tofu, or vegetables. We landed on the green curry (characterized by basil leaves and green curry paste in coconut milk) with a combination of seafood (a slight surcharge over the $9.95 base cost).

It was hard not to gush over this hearty stew of seafood and curry sauce. There was a good selection of fish, including mussels, scallops, shrimp, and squid, all of it tender, as if just passed through the steaming brew. Moreover, the sauce was far too good, so my partner and I ordered spoons to polish off the last drop. Curries are accompanied by a small plate of perfectly steamed jasmine rice.

I was more enthusiastic than my partner over our order of Glass Noodles ($9.95). Here, tender slices of white meat chicken had been stir fried with abundant transparent noodles and slices of tomato, mushrooms, cabbage, onion, snow peas, and egg. Its subtle flavor and distinct textures were a nice contrast to the fish curry, and the generous portion could easily have served two.

It was only due to the preceding banquet that we passed on dessert (all under $6), which included lychee and longan nuts, sweet sticky rice with mango, and a choice of ice cream.

We regretted that the restaurant was nearly empty on the night of our visit. Siam was right on par with the area competition. Meals arrived hot, beautifully prepared and well presented, and were more than fairly priced.

Tina, the ebullient, Vietnamese-born server, was an excellent source of counsel and advice, to the point of starring her favorite dishes on the take-out menu. Her infectious appreciation for Siam's food helped to make the night memorable.

SIAM

65 High St., Westerly

(401) 584-7999

Cuisine: Thai/Japanese

Atmosphere: The clean, comfortable, well-lit space includes several tables surrounding a sushi bar and overlooking Westerly's High Street. There is an adjacent bar and overflow dining room.

Prices: Inexpensive. Appetizers are all under $10 and main courses mostly under $16.

Service: Very good.

Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday and noon-3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Dinner 4:30-10 p.m. Monday-Friday and 4-10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Reservations: Not necessary.

Credit cards: All major credit cards.

Handicapped access: Up a ramp and through the front door.