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    Monday, April 29, 2024

    The exalted tastes of the Common Person

    Thirty years ago, I met Dean Fearing, the visionary pioneer of southwestern cuisine and executive chef at the Mansion, the world-renowned Dallas restaurant. He was buying a brand-new Corvette — a shade of yellow so intense it would’ve melted a canary — and I happened to be atop a tall ladder at the car dealership, washing the expansive windows with a squeegee at one of my many starving-rock-dude day jobs.

    That’s how I was able to glance down and see that the roof of the chef’s new ride had pockmarks — probably the result of a recent hailstorm that’d swept through North Texas. I alerted Chef Fearing, who was an instantly friendly and pleasant guy, and he was grateful for the head’s up — taking my name and promising to buy me dinner at the Mansion.*

    During our brief conversation, I asked if a rumor was true that he enjoyed Domino’s pizza. Yes, he said, although he doctored the pies up after they’d been delivered. He also liked McDonald’s French fries, he said.

    In that context, I’ve since come across the occasional newspaper or magazine story wherein high-end chefs do blind taste tests on fast food items — or simply, for purposes of the article, list any fast foods they enjoy that folks probably wouldn’t contextually expect. It’s the sort of light feature that makes for entertaining reading and, at the same time, gives folks like me the sense that, hey, even these Gods and Goddesses of Cuisine can appreciate a Dairy Queen Belt-Buster or two.

    What I haven’t seen, though, is a reverse spin on that construct.

    What, I wondered, do sub-minimum-wage kitchen workers secretly enjoy from the world of Michelin-star dining? What are THEIR secret caloric guilty pleasures? I gathered a few volunteers and this is what I learned:

    Favorite entrée

    Cayla-Belle (pinto bean-stirrer, Caliente): “Have you ever had the Wolfe Ranch White Quail ‘Rillette’ from the French Laundry? That’s a restaurant in, oh, one of those towns in the NoCal wine country. I can’t remember the name of it. Anyway, they braise this breast and wing of quail and the chef spins it with Nantes carrots, a chickpea panisse and a black truffle mushroom tapenade. Fantastic!”

    “Weed Head” (sandwich guy, Subway): “Y’all ever had besugo? It’s a type of seabream. Anyway, there’s this Basque-style chophouse in Chi-town I like. They dry-rub the besugo with garlic and chili flakes. Bad-ass for real!”

    Javier (muffins/bagels manager, Dunkin): “Every year, Dunkin sends its senior kitchen staffs to Belgium for a working vacation. I’ve gotten into the habit of going to Quatre Vins in Bruges — charming place in a beautiful city! — and they have this steamed pork belly with crunchy hispi cabbage in a thick BBQ sauce that’s almost more of a gravy. Next time you’re in Bruges, dude …”

    Favorite dessert

    Cayla-Belle: “I’m not gonna lie. At Ariete in Miami, the pastry chef makes this flan with candy cap mushroom, sambuca crema and coffee crumble. I know! Sounds like SUCKO! But it’s SOOOOOO good!”

    “Weed Head”: “Y’all know what? I’ve been in a lotta restaurants where I knew I was gonna drop $75 just for DESSERT — and I know you’re looking for, like, a sophisticated answer, but I’m perfectly happy with a bag of candy corn.”

    Javier: “We run up to Maine occasionally and I like eating at Izakaya Minato in Portland. Phenomenal Japanese place. But you were asking about dessert. I’m not really sure what’s on their menu, but, when you leave? By the hostess station? They have this bowl with wrapped candies. They’re just peppermints, but I like ’em. I always grab two or three.”

    * I never took Chef Fearing up on his free meal offer; I couldn’t have afforded to tip or the valet service. I wonder if he still remembers…

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