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    Sunday, April 28, 2024

    As Cinderella would say, there's no ball like a matzo ball

    A plate of steamy, hot matzo balls, fresh out of their boiling water bath. This recipe makes about 26 balls that are about an inch and a half in diameter, plenty for eight servings. (Jill Blanchette/The Day)
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    Am I crazy or am I not the only one in this matzo ball soup saga who feels like Cinderella after her long travail?

    We poached a chicken (and I swear I heard mice singing), then we simmered a pot of rich, chicken broth (did anyone else see those birds sewing that gown?), until finally, we arrive at the balls — the matzo balls, that is.

    For this, most important step on our journey to true love and matzo ball soup, our Princess Charming will be cookbook author and cooking and baking instructor Lauren Groveman.

    I first saw Groveman on "Baking with Julia," a PBS series wherein Julia Child invited a select group of bakers into her Cambridge, Mass., kitchen to show her a thing or two about what they did best. In an episode that first aired on June 27, 1992, Groveman taught Julia how to make bagels.

    While she certainly exhibited her skills in the kitchen, what I remember most is Groveman's unbridled joy. She so loved introducing Julia to these proper bagels that she could barely contain her respect and delight at being in Julia's presence. Yet her instructions were clear and compelling. I've seen the show several times since and each time she convinces me that I, too, can create magnificent bagels. 

    Adding to her charm is the way she talks. Groveman is the Barbra Streisand of the culinary world. Her accent so resembles Barbra's — broad, assertive, yet so precisely enunciated — that you expect her to belt out, "Don't tell me not to fly! I've simply got to!" at any minute.

    In her more contemporary incarnation, Groveman seems to have adopted a sociological culinary mission. On her website, Lauren Groveman's Kitchen, named after her first cookbook, she writes, "If enough of us make this type of home-spun deliciousness an integral part of our homes and lives, this has to help make this technologically-laden, 21st century world a happier, healthier and more balanced place — physically, emotionally, and yes, even spiritually."

    That becomes much easier to embrace once you've tasted her matzo balls. They are delicately textured, yet full-flavored globes of hardy goodness. And they are easy and gratifying to make so long as you follow her instructions when it comes to letting them rest and handling the batter gently.

    So if you don't have your mother's or aunt's or grandmother's recipe for matzo balls, look no further than this matzo ball Fairy Godmother. But don't make the same mistake I do. Usually, when I look at this recipe and see six eggs, I immediately decide to make just half a batch. Don't do it. Make them all. You'll be so glad you did.

    Enjoy!

    Jill Blanchette is the multiplatform production manager at The Day. Share comments and recipes with her at j.blanchette@theday.com.

    My Best Matzo Balls

     Serves 8-10 

    2 tablespoons rendered chicken fat (you can use what you skimmed off the top of your broth) 

    3 rounded tablespoons minced scallions (use the white part and 1-2 inches of the most tender green part) 

    6 extra-large eggs 

    1/3 cup solid vegetable shortening, melted 

    1¼ cups plus 1 rounded tablespoon matzo meal 

    1½ teaspoons salt 

    Freshly ground black pepper to taste 

    1 tablespoon minced, flat-leaf parsley 

    ¼ cup seltzer water (still fizzing) 

    Melt chicken fat in an 8-inch skillet over medium heat. When hot, add minced scallions, lower heat and cook until softened and fragrant, 2-3 minutes. Set aside to cool. 

    Lightly beat the eggs in a medium-size mixing bowl and add all the remaining ingredients, along with the cooled scallions. Combine gently but thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (or overnight) to thicken. 

    When the batter is well rested and nicely thickened, bring an 8-quart pot of water to a boil. Line a shallow baking sheet or tray with waxed paper or parchment. Using a medium-size ice cream scoop, scoop out the chilled matzo batter, releasing each portion into your hand. Quickly and gently round out the shape a bit and lay each orb onto the prepared sheet. 

    When you've molded all your batter and the water has reached a rolling boil, salt the water generously then ease the matzo balls into the boiling water and immediately cover the pot. Reduce the heat to low and simmer very gently for 20 minutes without lifting the lid. Don't peek. Don't adjust. Don't do anything. Just let them simmer gently, undisturbed. 

    After 20 minutes, very carefully and very gently, lift the balls from the boiling water with a slotted spoon. They will firm up when the sit in the hot chicken soup but fresh from the boiling water, they will be very delicate. 

    At this point, you can transfer them into your hot soup and let them sit until ready to serve, but I prefer to cool them a bit, then get them into an air-tight container and let them rest again overnight. I assemble the soup the next day, gently reheating the matzo balls for 20-30 minutes or so in the hot broth before serving. 

    Original recipe from "Lauren Groveman's Kitchen" by Lauren Groverman.

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