Years ago, when I first started working in New London, my new colleagues introduced me to Zavala, the funky, newsroom-adjacent Mexican restaurant right next to the train tracks. The staff were warm and welcoming; the margaritas potent and creative; and the food? Delicioso!

Many happy hours later, Zavala closed its doors in New London, amid no shortage of moaning among us about having to cross the Gold Star bridge to get to its sister restaurants.

Let us moan no more, because Zavala 2.0 – or, more accurately, Zavala Mexican Bistro – opened its doors this year in East Lyme in the space formerly occupied by Rebeka Fresh Pasta Restaurant. Fans of the New London precursor will find plenty of old favorites, and new patrons should count their lucky stars to have such tasty fare available in the region.

Zavala New London always had terrific chips and salsa, and the East Lyme location carries on the tradition. (Listed as “Salsa and Totopos” on the menu; $6 at lunch and $7 at dinner.) The chips are thick-cut and fresh, with a good dash of salt, and the tomato-based salsa has just the right amount of kick thanks to judicious use of jalapenos. A dash of cilantro evens out the heat and creates another enjoyable layer of flavor. I had chips in person and for takeout, and the takeout version was impressively packaged for travel. In-person, if you like still-warm, fresh chips, order this app immediately.

One pleasant surprise on the lunch menu were the listings for two different tortas (sandwiches, served open-faced at Zavala) – an item I haven’t seen often around these parts. After sampling the Torta de Queso y Frijoles ($12; comes with a mixed greens salad), I might run the risk of always ordering the same thing on subsequent visits. It was absolutely delicious and highly recommended. The description might appear basic to some – a baked, open-faced hard roll topped with layers of beans, cheese (possibly asidero), pico de gallo, and guac. However, this is an excellent example of how the sum of the parts often add up to much more. My roll was light-crispy perfection and the even layering of the toppings gave them all a chance to add distinct notes to the overall experience. Torta option 2 ($12) adds chicken breast to all of the above and comes with chipotle fries.

Black bean soup is among my favorite things on which to nosh, and Zavala offers an enjoyable version during lunch time. The $7 portion is quite generous and comes topped with cilantro, onions, and sour cream. (I requested and received no onions.) The beans are roughly pureed, making it a silky savory experience with a good balance of toothiness from blender escapees.

As a soup fan, I also sampled the Sopa Azteca on the dinner menu ($7) because check out the description: “Chicken, avocado, queso fresco, sour cream with a bed of crispy tortilla strips in a guajillo (a type of chili) broth.” This was in my takeout order and it was also carefully prepared for travel with the chicken, tortilla strips, and other loose ingredients packaged separately from the broth. Upon dumping it all in a bowl, I discovered pros and cons. Pros: Great texture from tender, shredded chicken and tortilla strips. Cons: The red-orange color of the broth was appealing and looked promising. Somehow, it was pretty bland. Apparently guajillo peppers are on the mellow, earthy end of the pepper spectrum. Was it bad? No. Was it a standout? Also no.

There were no additional items that fell in the “meh” column going forward. The house tacos employ handmade corn tortillas to great effect (two for $12). The tacos might appear demure to some, but rest assured they are quite hearty. Corn tortillas are thicker (and tastier) and they were loaded with tender chicken. Mild seasoning added a small kick to the chicken, and the accompanying black beans and rice (on the side) were very good on their own and even better with the chicken. Rice elsewhere can be a bit of a throwaway side dish, but it was cooked and seasoned to perfection both times I tried it.

The quesadilla with steak was great ($13 on the lunch menu; served with the aforementioned rice), with a generous portion of tender, tasty steak marinated in something delicious with a little kick of spice and proper cheese application within a handmade corn tortilla.

A dinner of the Citrus Roasted Pork entree ($22) added yet another item that I’ll probably order again and again. It’s as delicious as the description indicates: “Pork simmered in its own juices, until fork tender, in lime and lemon, served with black bean puree.” Fear not, the citrus notes are very subtle and serve to brighten the overall flavor and complement the smoky/savory and very, very tender pork. The pork is not shredded, but thanks to all that simmering and moisture, a fork will easily render bite-sized pieces. Suggestion: Swirl the pork in the subtly seasoned black bean puree. Yum.

I wish I’d had time and belly space to sample the Mexican Bread Pudding ($8) on the dessert menu, so it’s possible it will be my lunch or dinner sometime soon. Now that Zavala is a little closer to home, there’s plenty of time to revisit the hits and discover new ones.

IF YOU GO

Zavala Mexican Bistro

135 Boston Post Road, East Lyme

(860) 691-1200

www.zavalamexicanbistro.com

Cuisine: Authentic Mexican fare; appetizers, entrees, and desserts available

Atmosphere: The bar area is reminiscent of the New London location, with dark, polished wood and colorful decor. The bright and cheerful dining room offers many tables at comfortable distances, and the outdoor dining area is a great use of space and very festive.

Service: Welcoming and attentive. On a recent visit, I believe I was greeted by Mr. Zavala himself. Online ordering available.

Hours: Monday-Saturday, noon-8 p.m. (Closed Sunday.) Note: Menus change a bit, depending on whether you're there for lunch, happy hour, or dinner. All specifics are viewable on the website.

Prices: This ain't Taco Bell. Dinner entrees start at $17 (Chicken Tacos) and go up to $24 (Spicy Grilled Shrimp); lunch entrees average around $13; and apps run from $7 to $14.

Credit cards: Accepted

Handicapped access: No stairs to enter; very spacious interior; ample parking.