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    Sunday, June 16, 2024

    A caloric glance in the rear view mirror

    The Argentino sandwich at Puerto Lima (Sarah Gordon/The Day)
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    In case you missed any of our recent restaurant reviews, our writers offer brief encapsulations of recent bouts of gluttony -- er, refined culinary experiences.

    Five Churches by the Bay

    215 Main Street, Niantic

    860-850-2789

    Fresh beer and giant pretzels, anyone? Head over to Five Churches by the Bay in Niantic to enjoy both, along with great views and excellent people-watching. Niantic’s new brew pub is a sister operation of Five Churches Brewing in New Britain, which takes its name from its view in the downtown district.

    If you do order the Pub-Style Pretzel ($9), be aware that it easily satisfied four of us as we sipped our first beers—which is to say, it’s huge. It was also fresh, hot, buttery and everything else you want in a hot pretzel. The accompanying beer-cheese sauce and spicy brown mustard were standout tasty on their own. Dedicated fans of hot pretzels might want to save room for the Dessert Pretzel ($9), a baked plain pretzel dusted with cinnamon and sugar and a side of chocolate hazelnut sauce. Trust me, it works.

    What else goes perfectly with beer? Pizza of course, and Five Churches offers several options from its brick oven. We heartily recommend the Buffalo Chicken pizza ($16), a delicious combo of chunks of tender chicken, zesty “Cajun buffalo” sauce, and a drizzle of ranch dressing atop a very good crust. It went very well with a pint of the Cool Side Pilsner ($5), a quaffable brew with slightly creamy texture and subtle malt flavor.

    Burgers, wings and sturdier entrees are also available, but I challenge anyone to resist the trifecta of beer, pizza, and pretzels the first time around.

    — Marisa Nadolny

    High Hope Tavern

    18 High St., Westerly

    (401) 388-8450

    Keep an eye open for a bigger High Hope Tavern, as the bar and restaurant open since last fall expands into adjacent space and adds a raw bar this month.

    The place is already attracting regulars and the added

    space and shellfish are certain to draw new friends.

    We have continued to enjoy cocktails and dining at the bar, sampling things like the Fried Clam Roll, $14, with garlic aioli and cherry pepper relish; the Steak Tartare, $16, with radish, cucumber and grilled sourdough, and our favorite, the Caesar Salad, $16, with delicious greens, parmesan and crumbled breadcrumbs.

    You can add shrimp for $11, grilled chicken for $8, or anchovies for $5. The salad is a feast.

    Drinks at High Hope are special. Every cocktail is custom made by experienced bartenders who clearly know their business. Try the Block Island Buck, with vodka, ginger, mint, warm spice falernum, club soda and bitters. If you don’t know, falernum is a sweetened lime and spice concoction from the Caribbean.

    Cocktails are $14 and each has its own personality. The Disco Old Fashioned is billed as 70’s style, with bourbon, bitters, Luxardo cherries, and orange.

    Do yourself a favor and grab a seat at a table or the bar at High Hope, order a Beer Battered Fish Sandwich with fries, $22, and enjoy it with your favorite beverage. You won’t regret it.

    — Ann Baldelli

    Puerto Lima

    1641 Route 12

    Gales Ferry

    (860) 381-5765

    Ours is a region where tourists flock to Mystic, the Borough, Old Lyme and Old Saybrook. So it’s not cruel to suggest Gales Ferry isn’t a big destination spot.

    Perhaps that changes a bit with Puerto Lima, a small spot featuring a clever fusion of Peruvian and Puerto Rican food. The sandwich board is a thing of creative beauty, with blended meats, cheeses and seasonings in delightfully different combos. Try the Lomo Saltado, the Argentino, the Tripleta, and/or the Puerto Lima. We did and were blown away by the flavors and textures.

    There are also “farm to bowl,” self-designed meals where the customer dictates the hyper-fresh meats, vegetables and toppings.

    Do not miss the fresh fruit juices, blended on-site, and the empanadas are tasty, too. Service is as though you’re part of the family and prices are reasonable; the sandwiches are huge and in the $13-$14 range .

    Puerto Lima is small, and a lot of customers are of the take-out variety, but there are two cozy dining areas if you’d like to sit and enjoy a meal.

    — Rick Koster

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