Dining round-up: A look back at our critics' latest reviews
Fatboy's Kitchen and Bar
194 Bank St., New London
(860) 574-9154
New London's Bank Street is a cars-in-space rollercoaster of opening and closing restaurants, shops and bars — and too few proprietors seem to be able to figure out the ol' longevity formula. I'm betting, though, on Fatboy's Kitchen and Bar, a compact but welcoming "American comfort food" spot in a space formerly occupied by a Jamaican restaurant.
The layout is tripartite, with an eight-stool street-front bar area, a small but comfy dining room, and a pleasant deck overlooking the railroad tracks and the Thames River. The entire staff, headed up by chef Ron Dutes, is positively familial, and the concise but creative and stylistically varied menu offers plenty of gustatory excitement.
While I've still plenty to explore at Fatboy's, one problem is that, now that I've luxuriated in the braised short rib entrée ($22), it's hard not to want to eat it every time. There's a hockey puck-sized offering of incredibly tender and flavorful pork luxuriating in a rich nest of cavatelli and white cheddar. And a smoked cherry barbecue sauce — teasing both the sweet and sour tongue receptors — offers a spangled finish to the whole thing.
Also worth noting: the candied thick cut bacon appetizer ($12), fresh shellfish offerings from a raw bar, and a peppery shrimp po 'boy ($14) that takes the time-honored premise of New Orleans in a clever new direction.
— Rick Koster
Carson's Store
43 Main St., Noank
(860) 536-0059
There's a lot to like on the four-page breakfast and lunch menu at Carson's Store in Noank. The spot, open 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. every day but Monday, offers everything from a brisket, egg and Swiss sandwich ($7) to caramel walnut French toast ($12) to BLTs ($8), tuna melts ($8) and Reubens ($12.95). My top pick would be the Thanksgiving ($8), a moist and flavorful mix of sliced and warmed turkey, mayo, cranberry sauce and stuffing on a poppy seed ciabatta. That would be closely followed by the "Smothered Homefries" ($12), consisting of homefries, two eggs, peppers, onion, melted cheddar, chives and a choice of breakfast meat.
But the food is only part of the experience at Carson's. The other half would be the setting: a near time capsule of a diner just through the doors of a seaside, worn-wood building. Indeed, when you take a look at the booths, the old counter, the stools, the checkered title floor, the rock candy, the milkshake machines, and the chalk boards for specials and ice cream offerings, you'll wonder if you're in a museum about diners or the real thing. And a little more on that ice cream: there are plenty of flavors here, all of which should make a pretty excellent milkshake ($6). Trust me. I've already tried a few with coffee, swamp (vanilla ice cream with M&Ms and Oreo), and coconut almond fudge favors. (Oh yeah, root beer floats, $5, are good, too.)
— Alex Nunes
Simon's Marketplace - Pilot's Point
631 Boston Post Road, Westbrook
(860) 391-8626
Cooking at home is a good thing and rather satisfying ... until you hit Day 3 of casserole leftovers for lunch or dinner. Why not reward yourself with some meals, salads, and/or sandwiches to go courtesy of Simon’s Marketplace? Many items are sold by the pound, making it easier to buy enough for a good meal without overdoing it or wasting any leftovers.
As for the sandwiches, the one I sampled, a pulled pork BBQ construction on a ciabatta roll, could have fed two people (or one person in two sessions) — another money saver! The frugal might want to eschew Simon’s dessert options, but if you believe in dessert for dinner, you could justify a sampling of the scones, bars, pies, cookies and more available.
Last suggestion: there is nothing wrong with picking up a sea salt baguette ($3.75) and some lovely cheese or butter and calling that dinner. Paired with some rose (and depending on your cheese choice), you’ve gone gourmet for less than $20.
Or double your pleasure and try the Tomato, Basil Mozzarella sandwich, which comes on the baguette and is catapulted to greatness by the addition of house-made white vinaigrette to the high-quality titular ingredients.
— Marisa Nadolny
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