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    Sunday, June 16, 2024

    The best places we've reviewed this year

    The Thanksgiving sandwich from Carson’s Store in Noank. (Alex Nunes/Special to The Day)

    Fatboy's Kitchen and Bar

    194 Bank St., New London

    (860) 574-9154

    Is the idea of designer comfort food a contradiction in terms? No. At least not when Chef Ron Dutes is running things at his Fatboy's Kitchen and Bar in New London. It's a small, tripartite restaurant laid out like a shotgun shack, with the lounge in front leading into the main dining room that leads in turn to the outdoor deck. The intimacy makes it all the more fun.

    It's not a huge menu, but the creations are inventive, beautifully prepared and are the sort that make you want to double-up on the helpings pursuant to a luxuriant post-meal nap. Must try: the Braised Short Ribs entrée ($22), which blends succulent pork, cavatelli, a white cheddar sauce with parmesan crumbles, and a devilishly great smoked cherry barbecue sauce. Also recommended is the Tuna Tartare Tacos ($12) and a pick-your-own dish of three huge sides ($13), which might include roasted asparagus, garlic-teased green beans and a dense cloud of mac 'n' cheese with crisped bacon.

    — Rick Koster

    The Recovery Room

    445 Ocean Ave., New London

    (860) 443-2619

    Newcomers to New London are likely to hear recommendations for the Recovery Room restaurant fairly quickly. "Try the Thai chicken pizza and/or the gnocchi," they say, or, "You've got to try the chopped pasta salad right now!" As a skeptic and pizza snob, I don't believe much hype and back-burnered my maiden meal at Recovery Room.

    I'm still not sure why I did that. After sampling some pies (oh, Zia Margarita, you are so elegant in your pesto-spiced simplicity), that gnocchi (and yes, you SHOULD try the gnocchi), the perfection that is the pasta fagioli and other dishes, I proudly join the chorus of RR fans. As for the salad, I went with the Asian Sesame Chicken Salad on the lunch menu. How could you not love a salad that comes with angel hair noodles, wontons and dynamite dressing?

    Plus, one is seldom greeted more warmly than one is at the Recovery Room, from bartender, to waiter, to the owner himself, who tends to pop by to say hello.

    — Marisa Nadolny

    Pequot Café

    110 Pequot Trail, Mashantucket

    (860) 411-9671

    I've always been a seeker of novelty. And that's why my favorite sport is pogo stick basketball played with three footballs going at once! It's also why one of my hands-down favorite culinary experiences of 2016 was my first trip this summer to Pequot Café at the Mashantucket Pequot Museum & Research Center.

    Tasty appetizers are aplenty and hard to choose from — fried frog legs ($13.95), lobster fritters ($13.95), corn nugget fritters ($3.25), corn chowder ($5.95), quahog chowder ($5.95), and turtle soup ($9.95) — and entrees are one-of-a-kind and hard to beat: a seasonally offered lobster roll of buttered meat over Indian fry bread ($15.95), crab cakes served with butternut squash and cole slaw($13.95), and grilled venison skewers served with three sisters' rice prepared with beans, corn and greens ($13.95).

    — Alex Nunes

    Castello of Niantic

    11 East Pattagansett Road, Niantic

    (860) 451-8880

    If Rod Serling were alive and lived in Niantic, citizens could be forgiven if they suspect he owned the building at the corner of Pattagansett and Hope as the setting for an ongoing "Twilight Zone" episode called "The Haunted Restaurant." Because, for years, every dining operation that opened in that spot seemed ill-fated.

    The curse is broken! Castello of Niantic moved in last summer, and the fusion of classic and new Italian dishes — along with wonderful service and relaxed but classy ambience — is irresistible. This is a menu to be explored and enjoyed over numerous visits, but a few recommendations are always helpful.

    The Lobster Pappardelle ($23), with a bounty of fresh crustacean in a heavenly tomato/butter cream sauce, fortified by toothsome pasta noodles, white beans, peas and potato slices, is simply amazing. Ditto for the Polenta Portabella Stack ($16), with a stunning polenta festooned with the shroomage, tomato and eggplant, mozzarella and asparagus. Oh, and on your way out, order the thin crust Calabrese pizza ($16 and $18), which glistens with a sheen of olive oil and comes loaded with mozz, hot peppers and sausage.

    — Rick Koster

    Montauk House Cafe

    111 Montauk Ave., New London

    (860) 574-9019

    It’s easy to miss what was once one of New London’s best-kept secrets. Montauk House Cafe operates out of a small building on Montauk Avenue without much signage. Take my advice and go find it if you haven’t. Every last thing I’ve sampled there was outstanding. My first recommendation would be to try the tacos; you get two per order for less than $8, depending on your choice of filling. While at first glance the meatless black bean option might seem a little dull, be assured the medley of other fillings combine for one of the tastiest tacos ever — and it’s only $6.50 for two.

    Still, you don’t want to miss the amazing sandwiches on offer, and there are many tempting options. Allow me to help and suggest starting with the South in Your Mouth, a pulled pork masterpiece. If you move on to the Yard Bird, you will declare me a wonderful person for the commendation if you think buttermilk fried chicken with jalepeno slaw sounds like heaven (it is).

    The menu changes often, and there’s always something tempting to take home in the fresh salads case, so go eat big at this little local spot.

    — Marisa Nadolny

    Carson's Store

    43 Maint St., Noank

    (860) 536-0059

    Like a good Fleetwood Mac concert, the power of Carson's Store in Noank is its ability to offer something new and completely classic at the same time.

    The atmosphere, with its counter top and stools, row of vintage booths, and checkered linoleum floor, is absolutely transporting.

    And its menu offerings, with breakfast and lunch options ranging from a hearty sausage and red pepper benedict ($13.50), smothered home fries with peppers, onions, two eggs, choice of meat, melted cheddar and chopped chives ($12), to the Thanksgiving sandwich of turkey, sliced cranberry and mayo on toasted ciabatta ($8), are nothing short of delicious. There's also never a reason not to cap off lunch, or even breakfast, with a good milkshake ($6) or root beer float ($5).

    — Alex Nunes

    Venison skewers at Pequot Cafe (Alex Nunes/The Day)
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    The Polenta Portabella Stack at Castello of Niantic. (Rick Koster/The Day)
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    Pork, top, and chicken tacos from Montauk House Café in New London.Pork (top) and chicken (bottom) tacos from Montauk House Cafe in New London. (Marisa Nadolny/The Day)
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    The shrimp po'boy with mac and cheese at Fat Boy's Kitchen and Bar on Bank Street in New London. (Rick Koster/The Day)
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