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    Sunday, June 16, 2024

    Our faves of the restaurants we reviewed in 2019

    Whitecrest Eatery's seared swordfish with farm potatoes and lemon sauce (Ann Baldelli/Special to The Day)

    Dev's On State

    312 State St., New London

    A meal at Dev's is as fine a dining experience as you'll have in the region. Period.

    Ponder the many and creative small plates; light fare options; and the higher priced entrees. Everything we tried was excellent, and my Filet Mignon ($32), with a delicately crusty char and moist, rare interior, made me happy to walk on the planet. Yes, those are mashed potatos and a sundried tomato bechamel sauce helping sing harmony.

    But don't ignore the seafood options, either — or those narcotic-strength desserts.

    — Rick Koster 

    Vue 24 Sky Brunch

    24th floor of the Grand Pequot Tower, Foxwoods Resort Casino

    (800) 369-9663

    www.foxwoods.com/Vue 24 

    If you haven’t been to the Sunday brunch at Vue 24, consider putting it on your calendar to idle away a winter weekend morning.

    The food is as good as the view, and the unlimited “Small Plates” are phenomenal. One of our favorites was the Hash, a local hen egg over skillet potatoes, Vermont cheddar, caramelized onions, and pulled beef short rib.

    There’s so much food, much of it made to order, and for $40, it’s a deal. Served 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sundays.

    — Ann Baldelli

    Grano Arso

    6 Main St., Chester

    (860) 322-3143

    www.granoct.com

    Don't you just love to be right? Back in June, after repeated recommendations, we decided to sample the goods at Grano Arso, an Italian restaurant in Chester. Operating out of a 100-plus-year-old bank building, Grano was heading into its second year in business at the time with the buzz of a much longer established institution. On Dec. 2, it won the Connecticut Restaurant Association's Restaurant of the Year award — for the entire state, not just its region, which Grano handily won as well.

    If you love rustic, old-country Italian food, you will love Grano. If you like to support local farms and provisioners, you'll be in good company at Grano. If you expect only the best service for your hard-earned dollars, get thee to Grano. Plus, the cocktail menu and wine list are sure to please even the most discerning oenophiles and mixologists. Must-try items are many but be aware the menus change with the seasons. However, you'll likely find the excellent Rigatoni Bolagnese ($23), the amazing polenta ($8), and the astonishingly delicious Butterscotch Budino dessert ($8) most of the time.

    The secret is out: Our region is home to the best restaurant in the state. Grab a seat at the table before the multitudes discover it for themselves.

    — Marisa Nadolny

    Whitecrest Eatery

    Stonington Velvet Mill, 22 Bayview Ave., #14

    Instagram and Facebook @whitecresteatery

    This place is the new kid on the block. Open since July in a former wine bar by a young couple with a passion for food and service, the menu at Whitecrest changes regularly depending on the season and the market.

    Something new this month: Shrimp Marrakesh ($26), head-on shrimp in a spiced red sauce with Za’atar yogurt and Israeli couscous. Like everything else out of the Whitecrest kitchen, it’s different and very good.

    — Ann Baldelli  

    Dog Watch Mystic

    20 Old Stonington Road, Mystic

    (860) 245-4911, dogwatchcafe.com

    I know folks who've made reservations at the Dog Watch Inn in Stonington thinking they were making reservations at the Dog Watch Mystic — and vice versa. Be careful; both are excellent but feature different culinary focuses.

    In Mystic, try the barbecue. The Lord knows we're sort of bereft of real BBQ in this part of the world. But the Dog Watch brisket is the real deal. Try the mac 'n cheese balls, too, just to have the experience of saying, "Did I really eat an entire order of mac 'n cheese balls by myself?"

    It's a pretty restaurant, too, with a very nice lawn/patio for outdoor weather and a cozy interior layout with both a bar and a fireplace-toasted dining room.

    — Rick Koster

    The Bayou BBQ & Grill

    221 Shaw St., New London

    (860) 326-7947

    Having referenced above the rarity of good barbecue in the area, it seems sort of odd to point out another fine place to score brisket and some truly great ribs. But Brian Brother can damned sure bring it. And his Cajun stuff is very impressive. The shrimp or catfish po-boys are quite authentic, and the gumbo he makes daily — which is a tricky and time-consuming project — ranges from very good to truly excellent.

    — Rick Koster

    Vintage

    16 Main St., Colchester

    (860) 537-2464

    https://vintagect.com

    It's tough to encapsulate a place like Vintage in Colchester. In my March review of the place, in the "Cuisine" section of our info box, I described Vintage as "A farm-to-table mostly burger joint with creative small plates and a big emphasis on local ingredients." But far from your basic indie burger shack, Vintage raises the bar in several ways. It's located on the adorable Colchester green, and the interior is cool-Grandma-kitsch and cozy. A read-through of the menu offers a lesson in the wonderful bounty of this region. You'll find mushrooms from Maggie's Farm in Lebanon; Cold Spring Farm baby spinach; cheese from Colchester's own Cato Corner Farms and many other local items from the farms of southeastern Connecticut. Even the burgers themselves come from Connecticut-raised cattle.

    Burgers (starting at $9) are Vintage's main offering, but be sure to cruise the small plates and other snacks on the menu. From Biscuits and Gravy ($11; among the best I've ever had) to Sourdough Toast smeared with house-made sauerkraut and pork pate ($8), there are many happy surprises that are creatively conceived at Vintage. At any good vintage shop, it's all about variety and unexpected finds. Vintage in Colchester follows suit to great effect, and the town is lucky to have such a unique dining destination.

    — Marisa Nadolny

    Vue 24's Stonington lobster omelet (Ann Baldelli/Special to The Day)
    Dev's filet mignon (Rick Koster/The Day)
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