I remember the first time I went to the Fancy Food Show at the Javits Center in New York City. I had taken the train into the city, grabbed a cab and arrived at 10 in the morning. It is the biggest food convention in America, and I thought I could see everything in one day. By early afternoon I was bushed and my feet hurt. It was lunch time and I picked up a sandwich

On my way back to the vendors, I saw cookbook authors autographing their books, including a stunning black woman laughing and signing her book. I picked up “B. Smith’s Entertaining and Cooking for Friends” and stood in line. As she signed my book, she asked what I did and where.

“I’m a restaurant reviewer in New London, Connecticut.”

With a smile as bright as the cavernous light-filled lobby, she suggested I have dinner with her and her husband at their restaurant that evening. Oh, I wish I could, I said, but I have to get a train to get home.

“Oh, stay at our place in the city and go home tomorrow,” she suggested.

I didn’t, but I have always wished I had. She was a lovely hostess and presided over at least three restaurants (New York, Union Station in Washington and the Hamptons). She had a television show for many years. She wrote cookbooks, and her first, and my first of hers, is stained with ingredients of recipes I have cooked.

Barbara Smith died at age 70 on Feb. 23 in her home in Sag Harbor, N.Y., with her husband, Dan, by her side. She had suffered with dementia for many years.

People called her “the black Martha Stewart.” Martha could only wish.

Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

From “B. Smith’s Entertaining and Cooking for Friends” by Barbara Smith (Artisan, New York, 1995)

Topping

¼ cup unsalted butter, melted

½ cup firmly packed light-brown sugar

7 slices canned pineapple (reserve ½ cup juice for cake)

13 candied cherries (I like maraschino cherries)

Cake

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

½ cup unsalted butter, softened

1 cup sugar

2 large eggs

½ cup heavy cream

½ cup pineapple juice

whipped cream for garnish if you like

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease the sides of a 9- by 13-inch round baking pan with nonstick cooking spray or melted butter.

For the topping: beat the melted butter and brown sugar together in a small bowl. Spread this over the bottom of the prepared baking pan. Arrange six pineapple slices around the edge of the pan and one slice in the middle. Place a cherry in the middle of each pineapple slice and the rest between the slices around the edge.

To make the cake: Stir together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ginger and cloves in a large bowl. In another larger bowl, beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy (I use my big KitchenAid for this for about 4 minutes). Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Using a spatula, alternatively fold in the flour mixture and the heavy cream and pineapple into the butter and sugar mixture until well blended. Spread the batter over the pineapple slices and bake for 1 hour or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Let the cake cool in the pan for 5 minutes. Then run a sharp knife around the edge to loosen the cake, invert a serving plate over the cake pan and turn the cake and plate over together. Remove the cake pan. Serve warm with whipped cream.

Cook’s Tip: If you have a little time, visit Coffee’s on Route 1 in Old Lyme and pick up a pint of Reed’s ginger ice cream. It is amazing with this cake.

On the Side

Back when I was a restaurant reviewer for The Day, I was invited to many dinners before the restaurants were open for business. I rarely went because restaurant critics should be anonymous. Now that I write about cooking, no one asks, even though I could actually go.

When my editor suggested I try Vue24, the penthouse restaurant at Foxwoods, I thought it might be fun. The food was incredible and either local or regional, sea or farm to table. Appetizers included a rare slice of Hudson Valley wagyu, Cato Corner cheese from Colchester, smoked branzino from New York, Stonington sea scallops and smoked salmon from New York. I did not stay for the four-course dinner, but a similar menu is available every Thursday evening.

Vue24

Foxwoods, 350 Trolley Line Blvd., Mashantucket

Lee White lives in Groton. She can be reached at leeawhite@aol.com.