As we approach the holiday season, I guess you could say that the timeliness of this article, relating to Groton oysters is, to say the least, remarkable.

I wonder how many readers are aware of a common practice by many households in the southeastern United States of having various oyster dishes on Christmas Eve.

The tradition can be traced back to when the Irish immigrated to American in the mid-1800s. They had been accustomed to having a Christmas Eve stew containing ling fish, which weren’t available in America, so they had oysters which were readily available and very inexpensive. The reason for having a seafood dish was the fact that eating meat the day before a religious day, like Christmas, was forbidden by the Catholic Church.

Oystering in Groton can be traced back, at least, to the late 1500s and early 1600s when the Pequot Indians inhabited most of the lands along and near the coastline in southeastern Connecticut. The Pequots were great fishermen and harvested various shellfish, including oysters in the coastal waters in and around Groton, including the Poquonnock and Mystic Rivers.

The Poquonnock River, even today, continues to be one of the most lucrative areas for shellfishing in Connecticut. For years, the waters of this river have been known for producing what is considered the “most delicious oysters” on the East Coast.

In the late 1870s the desire for Poquonnock River oysters outranked the famous “Blue Point” oysters which originated in Long Island Sound near Blue Point, N.Y. Blue Points were selling for $5 a barrel, and the Poquonnock oysters were realizing $10 per barrel.

There came a point when, for various reasons, the number of oysters harvested in the Poquonnock Rivers reduced drastically. The river’s bottom had become very muddy and the presence of substrates, such as rocks and other artifacts, were less available for oyster eggs (referred to as spat) to attach to and grow upon.

In the early 1800s an individual, who was only identified as a “Yankee,” conceived of an idea for increasing the supply of oysters on the muddy bottom.

The gentleman’s idea was to place wiry, but strong, birch tree branches on the bottom of the river in areas most likely to be in the path of where the floating oyster spat would attach.

He placed birch tree branches in the middle of the river at what he felt was an appropriate distance apart and then waited a few weeks before he pulled them.

Upon inspecting the pulled limbs, he was astonished to find that each and every limb and branch of all of the trees were thick with half-grown oysters. He also discovered that the weight of these newly developed oysters caused the tree branches to drag into the mud on the river’s bottom, resulting in what was described as “millions to perish.”

Encouraged by his first trial run, the “Yankee” altered his method by using tree limbs that were roughly 15 to 20 feet in length and having butts that were three to four inches in diameter. He then planted the base of the limbs three to four feet into the mud. The top of the tree branches was barely visible at the peak of low tide.

After a few months, the tree plantings were inspected and with exhilaration it was discovered that the new method had produced an astonishing harvest of oysters. A great deal of money was made through the sale of the “tree oysters.”

Within a few years, dozens of individuals applied for permits to plant or cultivate oysters, in specific designated areas (lots or ground), using oyster trees, in the Poquonnock River. One individual, in the years 1879-1881, placed approximately 6,700 white birch “oyster branches” on his plots.

In May 1881, shortly after an encouraging crop of “tree” oysters had been harvested and a second planting of tree branches had been completed, an unexpected event occurred which had a devastating impact on the Poquonnock River oyster production — a deadly scarlet fever epidemic had broken out in the village close to the river.

Scarlet fever is an infectious disease that often develops in people who have strep throat. Symptoms commonly include a sore throat, fever and headache. It also features a bright red rash over most of the body.

It is very contagious and is spread by coughing and sneezing and by touching objects with the bacteria on it and then touching the mouth or nose. It commonly affects children between the ages of 5 and 10.

At the time there was no known cure or treatment for the disease, and between the period of May through August of 1881, over 50 cases had been reported and 20 children in Poquonnock had died from the outbreak. Needless to say, residents of the community were panic stricken. For unknown reasons, possibly out of personal terror created by the epidemic, it was suggested that it was caused by the oyster trees decaying in the mud plots.

The board of health, which consisted of the town’s Selectmen and Justices of the Peace, became involved.

I should mention here that nearly all of the board members were either oyster bed owners themselves or oyster sympathizers. The board had some of the oyster trees removed and tested. The test results declared the oyster trees to be harmless. Nearby pigsties were identified as the culprits by the health board.

An appeal was sent to the state Board of Health, and the chairman of that board inspected the plots and ordered that the local board remove the trees as they were poisoning the air.

The local board began to remove the trees; however local fishermen filed an injunction.

Now, completely frustrated, the community appointed a new Board of Health and called a hearing concerning removing the oyster trees. Interestingly, the Hon. Thomas M. Waller, the then-Governor of the State, represented the anti-tree group.

The new Health Board ruled that the oyster trees be removed. The oyster trees were subsequently removed and placed on the shore. At the time of their removal, it was found that all of the branches on each of the trees were covered with oysters in all stages of growth.

Subsequently, in September 1882, Gideon F. Raymond, the owner of the largest portion of the oyster trees removed from his oyster beds in the river, filed a lawsuit against the health committee of the Town of Groton, claiming $25,000 in damages.

In December 1882, Mr. Raymond was awarded $5,000 in damages.

Although research was conducted to determine if the scarlet fever epidemic diminished after the removal of the trees, nothing could be found. Research will continue, and if any information is developed to answer this question, it will be relayed in a timely fashion.

In the interim, it is nice to note that, due to advances in medicine, especially in the development of antibiotics, incidents of scarlet fever are almost nonexistent. Also, thanks to marine scientists and professionals, oyster harvesting, on both local and industrial levels, has also come a long way and oysters continue to be a great source of nourishment.

Jim Streeter is Groton Town historian.