Discover the secret life of nature on safari

March 09, 2017 3:00 am • Last Updated: March 09, 2017 10:52 am

By Story and photos by Kenton Moore

Every visitor to Africa brings home a different story. Each has his own point of view, his own memories and his own experiences. I am no different. As a veterinarian my focus has been on Africa's wildlife, its birds, reptiles and, of course, its mammals.

I first visited Africa 10 years ago. I was overwhelmed by the diversity of the wildlife and (from the safety of a Land Rover) how close we could approach their space. How exciting it was to see the first resting pride of lions, to be surrounded by a herd of elephants, then watch two hyenas feed on the last remnants of dinner, and to experience our own first "sundowner" under the watchful eyes of the world's endangered wild dogs.

I have just returned from my sixth trip to Botswana in southern Africa. In the Okavango Delta at Vumbura Plains Camp I was still in awe of sighting that first lion pride of the trip, but like a fine wine, I have learned to appreciate the nuances in the life of the wild. A pride's lion cubs playing with each other and climbing over mom like our own domestic cats or nuzzling a resting uncle, make for a peaceful scene—which changes in a split second to rapt attention by the adults at the first sound or smell of an approaching herd of buffalo. Through some inaudible communication the cubs become quiet and fade to the background as the lionesses (the bread winners of the pride) stalk their prey, laying in ambush for an unsuspecting buffalo calf and its mom. The trap is sprung, the dust flies, the chase is on and a lioness readies her powerful claws for the vulnerable calf. In seconds the tables are turned as the mother counterattacks and out of nowhere the entire herd of buffalo stampedes the hunters and chases them into the bush. A happy ending for the calf and its mother but hungry stomachs for a pride of lions.

A late afternoon safari at Duma Tau Camp is rewarded with the sighting of a pack of 21 wild dogs sleeping camouflaged in the shade of several bushes. Wild dogs are not domestic dogs gone wild but a separate species entirely. Acting very much like our own domestic species, the dogs awaken, stretch, relieve themselves and begin licking and nuzzling each other. The immature adults and pups begin running, chasing, and jumping on each other. A time to frolic, until a distant bark grabs everyone's attention. Responding, the pack sets out on the run. Our vehicle follows them crashing through the bush. In the distance we spot a galloping Impala, closely followed by a solitary dog. In the bush we lose the track of the pack. The wild dogs working as a team are the most efficient of African hunters. An hour later we find the remains of the kill surrounded by part of the pack of blood-soaked adults sharing the kill with the young pups and older, debilitated pack members. This behavior is unlike the lion pride whose adult males will eat their fill and leave any remains to the rest of the pride.

Standing on the deck of my perched tent at Savuti Camp next to a flowing river I watch a single elephant approach first to drink, then to cool off with the spray from its trunk and finally to eat the water lily roots. In silence out of the bush appear two more elephants, then five, and finally 11 glide effortlessly into the river. The young ones play while the adults drink and cool off. This scene lasts a while but then just as effortlessly the herd retreats to the bush. Later, following the herd in a Land Rover, I again watch their interactions. The greetings with their trunks extended like shaking hands, the trumpeting mock charge of young bulls at the vehicle, the gentle nudge by a mother to her fallen calf, and finally the surrounding protective instinct of the herd to its young in response to our vehicle moving away. All these behaviors (except the trumpeting bull) are soundless as the giants pass through the bush.

There are so many more stories to share, so many more pictures to jog my memory and remember sounds, smells and sights. The African experience—life changing? A resounding YES.

Dr. Kenton Moore has served nearly four decades of his veterinary career at Clinton Veterinary Hospital, with specialization in surgery, wild bird rehabilitation and animal acupuncture. His visits to Africa were arranged in conjunction with Judy Wood at Klingerman Travel, a second-generation family-owned travel planning and consulting company in East Lyme. Judy has extensive experience in travel to Botswana, and custom-designs safari itineraries to suit the interests and wishes of her clients. She can be contacted directly at judy@klingermantravel.com.