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    Sunday, May 05, 2024

    Where steam is still king

    Bill Payne photo

    Growing up in the town of Deep River, there were certain sounds that I always associated with summer: the fife and drum corps practicing for the annual muster, the clanging of metal on metal of the Deep River Horseshoe Club on Thursday nights, and the melodic sound of the whistles of the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat echoing through the valley. As a child, I took these sounds for granted, assuming this sort of charm existed everywhere. As an adult, I now know how rare all of these sounds are, not the least of which are the train whistles. At one time, there were over a 100,000 active steam engines operating in the U.S., so it would’ve been an everyday noise, even a nuisance. But today, there are less than 100 in scheduled service, of which the Essex Steam Train operates two! And they offer no shortage of opportunities to experience these amazing machines, while also showcasing the beauty and history of the lower Connecticut River Valley.

    Certainly the most accessible opportunity is the namesake steam train and riverboat excursion from May through October. At the landmarked 1891 station in Essex, board the train—consisting of a steam engine and eight antique rail cars, some of which are over 100 years old—and enjoy a ride north through quintessential New England on your way to connect with the Becky Thatcher riverboat at Deep River Landing. Here you can take a narrated 1¼-hour journey past historic Gillette Castle and the Goodspeed Opera House, and the unspoiled shores of Selden Neck State Park and the Chapman Pond nature preserve.

    The Saybrook Special, offered at no additional charge, takes place on the first weekend of every month and features a trip south to Old Saybrook, including a narrated tour of the railroad’s history and the natural history of the landscape. The Gillette Castle Connection allows passengers to ride the historic Chester-Hadlyme Ferry and hike up to William Gillette’s stately home as part of a train and riverboat outing. Caboose Weekends, which are also offered on the first weekend of every month, offer the option of riding in a caboose restored by the Friends of the Valley Railroad. 

    The Essex Steam Train offers different opportunities to experience the splendor of the fall colors along the Connecticut River: the steam train and riverboat excursion, or the steam-powered Haddam Special. This trip takes a longer train-only excursion nine miles up the line to the towns of Haddam and East Haddam. Here, passengers disembark for a three-hour layover, where they have the option to shop, dine, or take an eco-excursion aboard the Riverquest. 

    Railroad enthusiasts may be most interested in this behind the scenes offering: Hand on the Throttle, which offers spring and autumn courses in steam locomotive operation, followed by the opportunity to run the locomotive for an hour under supervision. 

    Probably the most amazing opportunity to see these steam engines in action is at Christmas, when both engines operate simultaneously, pulling the Santa Special and North Pole Express trains. But tickets sell out quick in September, so be sure to put your name on the railroad’s email list in order to get advanced notice of ticket sales. 

    There are those operations that are pulled by vintage diesel locomotives instead of steam. Not the least of which is the Essex Clipper Dinner Train, a premier dinner train experience offering a four-course meal in elegantly restored Pullman dining cars as the train travels along the banks of the Connecticut River. A scaled down version is offered on weekdays in the form of a Lunch Train and connects with the riverboat trip. This same consist also pulls the Eagle Flyer trains in February, offering a comfortable way to view wildlife on the river as the train winds its way among the bare winter trees. 

    Enjoy the golden hours of sunset aboard a Sunset Cruise leaving from the dock at Deep River. This year, they operate on Saturday nights from June through September. In the fall, the Sunset Cruise morphs into Swallow Cruises, allowing unique access to marvel as tens of thousands of tree swallows converge on the lower Connecticut River. 

    Looking to have an event amid the trains at this unique and historic venue? River Valley Junction, the former Dickinson’s Witch Hazel Bottling Plant at Essex station, offers space for gatherings of up to 200 people in either the main hall or the Oliver Jensen Gallery.

    Space is often limited, so call ahead and reserve a spot. To make a reservation, call 860-767-0103 or e-mail info@essexsteamtrain.com. The Essex Steam Train & Riverboat is located at 1 Railroad Avenue in Essex. For more information, including the dates and prices for each excursion, visit essexsteamtrain.com.

    Kim Tyler photo
    Winter Caplanson photo
    Kim Tyler photo
    Winter Caplanson photo
    Christopher Smith photo