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    Sunday, April 28, 2024

    Explore wonderful waterways

    The Connecticut River and Long Island Sound offer abundant opportunities for viewing wildlife, fishing, boating and other forms of recreation. (Toni Leland photo)

    The Connecticut River

    When glaciers retreated from the our landscape more than 12,000 years ago, they left behind a beautiful giant to mark their memory. The Connecticut River, ancient nurturer of fish, birds and people, today is one of only 14 American Heritage Rivers, and in 2012 became the first “National Blueway” in the country, in honor of the conservation work done to keep its waters a vibrant resource for all. The longest river in New England, it originates in Quebec, flows majestically through five states and empties into the salty waters of Long Island Sound near Saybrook Lighthouse. Its history is tied with the state’s own - the word “Connecticut” is a corruption of the Mohegan word, “Quinetucket”, which means “beside the long, tidal river”. The river shelters freshwater mussels, trout, flounder, herring, alewife, shad, smallmouth bass, Atlantic sturgeon, striped bass, carp, catfish, eel, and Atlantic Salmon. Osprey and eagles nest along its banks.

    The river offers breathtaking vistas and opportunities to learn about nature. One local gem is the Connecticut River Museum, located on land that was the site of battles during the War of 1812 in Essex. The exhibits are fascinating, and the library and archives are a treasure for anyone wishing to learn more. Best of all, the museum is located at the end of a scenic and walkable downtown district, where shops and restaurants are happily tucked into historic buildings across from Essex’s spacious and lovely Town Green. Visit during July and you’ll see the buildings decked out in all of their Fourth finery. If you’re yearning to sail, a trip aboard the schooner Mary E. (which docks at the museum) is a great experience. Built in 1906, this 75-foot gaff rigged schooner is one of the last remaining vessels of that time built in Bath, Maine. She sails Memorial Day weekend through October, offering 90-minute and 2-hour cruises every day except Wednesday. Sunset cruises depart at 5 p.m.; day trips are 90 minutes and depart at 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Your cruise fare includes free admission to the museum, so plan your Essex visit ahead of time. ctrivermuseum.org/schooner-cruises

    As early as March, the RiverQuest in Haddam ferries bundled-up visitors down the river to catch sight of the returning American Bald Eagle pairs, as well as myriad other birds and animals. You’ll even get to see the “fish finder,” a large screen view of what’s swimming below the hull! Throughout the season, Captain Mark carries eager nature lovers over the water to view the Ospreys, Herons, and Egrets, and from the end of August into October, the Tree Swallow Sunset Cruise is not to be missed. RiverQuest also offers special cruises throughout the season, both day and evening events. Picnics are welcome. ctriverquest.com

    The Thames River

    One river, a thousand stories are highlighted at the Thames River Heritage Park. The park is a collection of national and historic sites along two shores of the Thames River that tell the stories that shaped our nation during the past 400 years. The sites are linked by seasonal water taxis — two historic U.S. Navy vessels — that transport visitors to three landing sites in New London and Groton. Visitors can enjoy the history, culture, and recreation at each stop and continue their ride at their leisure.

    Be transported to the spot where in 1781 traitor Benedict Arnold’s men stormed Fort Griswold in Groton, a massacre commemorated with the nation’s first obelisk, built before Bunker Hill. Cross the river to the U.S. Custom House Maritime Museum in New London where the story of the 1839 mutiny of African captives aboard the schooner La Amistad, lives on. Visit the 1678 Hempsted House to see where a widowed father of nine children managed to find time to chronicle daily life in a diary that is now used worldwide as a primary source on Colonial America. From pre-revolutionary and civil war eras to a vibrant whaling hub to the Submarine Capital of the World, the Thames River Heritage Park is tells stories of America.

    The water taxis run Friday, Saturday, and Sunday 10 a.m.-9 p.m. from Memorial Day Weekend (starting Friday, May 26) though mid-September. Roundtrip hop-on/hop-off rides are $10 for adults, $5 for children 4-12 and military, and free for children 3 and younger. A season pass – unlimited rides throughout 2017 - is a bargain at $50. For more information go to thamesriverheritagepark.org.

    The river is also the waterfront site of New London’s popular annual summer festival, Sailfest, known for its rides, entertainment, wares, food and fireworks spectacle. (See page 30-35 for details on that and other festivals.)

    A short drive north of New London brings the visitor to another charming city situated on the Thames. Norwich offers organized historic and scenic walking tours (walknorwich.org); the Slater Memorial Museum, a rich repository of art from five continents (and well worth the $3 admission; slatermuseum.org); and the Norwich Rose Garden, located on Rockwell Street in Mohegan Park. In June, it’s a must-see, when 2,500 rose bushes in 120 varieties are in full flower. Afterward, head downtown for a beverage in a high-end pub.

    The Lieutenant River

    This small waterway has had a larger than life impact on the generations of artists who found inspiration on its shores. During the early years of the 20th century, the Lyme Art Colony, centered in Miss Florence Griswold’s boardinghouse in Old Lyme, became America’s most famous summer art colony. Today, the Florence Griswold Museum grounds hug the tidal river, and hosts many annually anticipated festivals and events; including GardenFest in June, the ever-magical Wee Faerie Village exhibit each October, and the free Midsummer Concert on the river’s banks, which this year takes place July 28 from 7-9 p.m.

    Long Island Sound

    Beacons of light along the shore have guided mariners through the ages, and haunting and picturesque lighthouses loom large in images of New England. On the Connecticut coast, there are unforgettable opportunities to visit these ocean landmarks.

    The Cross Sound Ferry Sea Jet offers an amazing tour of nine historic lighthouses in Long Island Sound off the coast of Connecticut. As the boat leaves the New London waterfront on the Thames River, an excellent tour narrator points out several landmarks, including Fort Trumbull (originally built to protect the harbor from British attack). Heading downriver, the Sea Jet enters the Sound and, for two hours, the beautiful lighthouses each have their moment in the spotlight. First up is New London Harbor Light, built in 1789, the first lighthouse on Long Island Sound and the fourth of the original twelve Colonial lights. During the War of 1812, the Americans put out the light so that the British could not use it to navigate the harbor. longislandferry.com

    Looking for a sailing experience aboard a storied tall ship? Step back in time on the Mystic Whaler, which sails out of New London from June through October. The vessel is a reproduction of a late 19th-century coastal cargo schooner. A variety of day, luncheon, Sunday brunch and lobster dinner sails are offered as well as 2-5 day overnight cruises (which include home-cooked meals). The Mystic Whaler also offers excursions during the annual Sailfest and CT Maritime Heritage Festival celebrations. The Mystic Whaler has been chartered for weddings, rehearsal dinners, client appreciation events, family reunions, alumni events, school groups, anniversary parties and birthday celebrations. 

    Visitors view Plum Lighthouse in Long Island Sound.
    The Connecticut River winds through many beautiful communities. (Toni Leland photo)
    Salt marsh habitats offer prime viewing for wildlife. (Toni Leland photo)