Beets can be a polarizing vegetable. Some people think their earthy flavor makes them taste like dirt, and they may not appreciate how the crimson juice of a cooked beet stains their teeth. Others may consider that beets have a pleasantly sweet taste and excellent versatility, since both the root and leaves can be used in recipes.

Even if your affection for beets doesn't approach Dwight Schrute levels, this crop can be a beneficial addition to your vegetable garden. Beets have plenty of natural sugars and are a good source of fiber, folate, and vitamins A and C.

You'll also have plenty of varieties to choose from. The Michigan State University Extension says beets come in several different shapes and colors, including varieties that can easily be sliced to add beets to recipes.

Beets can be planted in the spring, but late season crops can also be successful. The Old Farmer's Almanac says late season plantings can be made anytime between June and September.

Preparing a site

Full sunlight will help stimulate the growth of a beet crop. The Cornell University Cooperative Extension says they can also tolerate partial shade, which will help keep temperatures from becoming too high.

Since good aeration will also help with growth, the soil will ideally be a sandy loam with no major obstructions such as rocks. Loosen the soil and mix in a layer of compost before planting. Since beets will not grow well in acidic soils, make sure the pH level is not lower than 6.

Beet seeds are most likely to germinate when the soil temperature is between 50 and 85 degrees, although growth can start in temperatures as low as 40 degrees and as high as 90 degrees. The Old Farmer's Almanac recommends waiting until soil temperatures get to 50 degrees before planting.

When starting in spring, you can get a continuous crop of beets by making successive plantings every three weeks until the middle of summer. Avoid planting later than 10 weeks before the first anticipated frost of the autumn.

Plant seeds a half-inch deep, and separate them by one inch. The National Gardening Association says you should put them one to one-and-a-half inches deep when planting during hotter temperatures.

If you like beet greens but don't like their roots, separate the seeds by only a half-inch. This spacing will limit the root systems but allow the leaves to grow.

Care

In dry areas, soaking the seeds for 24 hours before planting them will aid their growth. You can also create a three-inch deep furrow with plenty of moisture, then plant the seeds at the usual depth.

The Cornell University Cooperative Extension says you should start thinning the plants when the seedlings reach a height of four inches. Cutting them instead of pulling them will help preserve the root systems. The thinnings can be eaten with salads.

The National Gardening Association says the first round of thinning should leave one-and-a-half to two inches between plants. After a month, you can thin them again to leave four inches between plants.

Be vigilant about weeding around the beets. The University of Illinois Extension says beets will not compete well with weeds, so you should regularly remove any of these unwanted plants. Be careful about digging too far into the soil to remove weeds, since you can easily damage the root system.

The ideal fertilizer depends on what you hope to produce. The Old Farmer's Almanac says nitrogen-rich fertilizers will produce more leaves and smaller roots – an ideal situation if you prefer beet greens. A fertilizer with higher levels of phosphorus will be better for root development.

Beets should get at least one inch of water per week. Keep the soil moist if it is not receiving adequate moisture through rainfall.

Problems

Several pests and diseases can affect beets. The Cornell University Cooperative Extension says you'll need to provide the plant with extra boron if you notice corklike black areas in the roots.

Leaf miners, cutworms, wireworms, flea beetles, and aphids can all wreak havoc on beets. Floating row covers or a fine cover such as cheesecloth can keep these insects at bay.

If you notice that leaves have been affected by leaf miners, remove and destroy them. The Michigan State University Extension says some gardeners also put potato slices in the soil near beets to give wireworms an alternate source of food.

Diseases that can affect beets include Cercospora leaf spot, scab, and root rot. To prevent these diseases, avoid overwatering or getting the top of the plant wet. There should also be enough room between plants to provide ample air circulation.

Beets are related to Swiss chard and spinach. Avoid planting beets in the same plot where these plants have grown in recent years, since this will make it more likely for diseases to be transferred from one crop to the other.

Harvesting

Harvest the beets when they grow to a size that is suitable for your needs. They will be sweeter and brighter when grown in full sunlight and cool conditions; beets grown in warmer temperatures will have lighter colors and less sugar.

The Old Farmer's Almanac says most varieties will be ready for harvesting after 50 to 70 days, and that letting them grow longer will make them tough and woody. It is best to harvest beets before the greens grow more than six inches tall.

Remove the greens from the root before storage, leaving about an inch of stem on the root. The University of Illinois Extension says the greens will sap flavor from the root if they are left connected since they will continue to draw moisture.

Use the greens as quickly as possible. Beet roots can be preserved in the refrigerator for up to a week, or for longer in a root cellar or other cool, dry place. Beets can also be canned, frozen, or pickled.