You can be forgiven if you think the name of the Goode & Moore Delicatessen on Montauk Avenue in New London is one of those clever and double-entendre marketing ploys, rather like the recurrent law firm in Three Stooges episodes called "Dewey, Cheetam and Howe."

(Get it? And, yes, I still laugh at that far more than I probably should.)

In fact, though, James and Jamie Ford, the affable and talented husband-and-wife team that own Goode & Moore, while aware of the pun possibilities, named the place after their respective grandmothers - each of whom instilled in her child a love of and talent for food and cooking.This affection and skill fairly bubble over in the tiny storefront, wherein the customer feels more or less as though he or she is visiting an old friend's kitchen to borrow a cup of sugar and ends up staying for a while just because it's comfortable.

It'd be wrong to say Goode & Moore is strictly take-out, though folks who work in any of the nearby medical buildings, firemen, and neighborhood residents do regularly pop in to grab food to go. But there are also a few small dinettes in the front of the house with tablecloths sporting New London Whalers logo, and there's seating on the porch out front protected from weather by Sabbett hotdog umbrellas.

On site or in transit, there is much to enjoy at Goode & Moore. They focus on typical deli fare: breakfast, grinders, specialty and grilled sandwiches. Here are some highlights you'll enjoy.

• The breakfast menu features a Georgia Hot sandwich ($5.75) on a soft roll with two fried eggs and cheddar cheese. If a Georgia Hot is an alien concept, it's a finely ground and spicy sausage from Dixie (duh!). It's got texture and a sneaky, lingering peppery quality that's never too much and stands as a fine wake-up sustenance. Throw in the gooey cheese and griddle-hot-eggs components, and this is a sunrise triumph.

• Similarly, James, who typically mans the grill in the post-dawn hours, will - before your sleep-crusted eyes - hand chop potatoes, onion and fresh corned beef and construct a terrific hash and THEN heap it all on one of those soft rolls ($4.50). Other than a drive-through element, that anyone would consider, oh, an Egg McMuffin a competitive alternative to this gem is beyond me.

• Veggie Alert! At G&M, their hand-made meatless patties are proud triumphs that aren't remotely supposed to replicate ground meat. Their veggie burger ($5.95) is an alchemical formula including corn, black beans, jalapeño and more - held together with a tasty adhesive probably including egg and a flavored oil. With melted cheddar, it's a really great and unique version.

• The Rachel ($6.95) is a variation on the classic Reuben, with smoked turkey standing in for the traditional corned beef. The turkey seemed carved off an actual breast - as opposed to pre-sliced and processed meat. It's a subtle presence, nestled amidst the sweet and briny kraut and familiar Swiss cheese, and buttery, grilled Texas toast gamely tries to anchor a gleeful but messy construct. Big fun.

• Chili ($2.75 cup, $3.95 bowl and $5.95 quart) is a piquant, beefy recipe with tart (but not overly spicy) flavor, a not-too-sweet tomato foundation, and toothsome pinto beans. A perfect welcome to fall! One minor incident that might interest only me:

• The steak & cheese grinder ($7.95) was a fine and tasty bargain that involved a heaping supply of tender, flavorful grilled meat and a riverine lava-flow of American cheese. However, though the menu description calls for the standard accents of grilled peppers and onions, there was no mention made of mushrooms. Which was good. Ricky don't DO mushrooms. It was a bit of a shock, then, to bite into the grinder and - yes - discover several slices of the dreaded fungus throughout the otherwise delicious morass. For most folks, the mushroom component would probably be a good thing. As it turned out, it wasn't a deal breaking. With precise skill, I put on my Navy SEAL binoculars, grabbed a pair of medical examiner forceps - and efficiently removed all traces of the toadstool. Mission saved!

I look forward to exploring the rest of the menu at Goode & Moore - a most welcome addition to the local feast scene.

Goode & Moore Delicatessen

111 Montauk Ave.

New London

(860) 574-9039

Cuisine: Standard deli and breakfast

Atmosphere: Tiny, cluttered and welcoming; like being in a favorite aunt's over-decorated kitchen

Service: Companionable and folksy; it's a small operation, though, so it doesn't hurt to call ahead or have a bit of patience

Prices: Very reasonable, with most main items $3.95-$8.95

Hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Saturday

Handicap access: A step up from the front porch, through one door and then immediately through a second, perpendicular door. It's a bit of a tough entry.

Reservations: N/A, though it doesn't hurt to call-ahead on larger orders

Credit cards: All majors