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    Saturday, May 04, 2024

    Three James brothers operate a welcome new restaurant on New London’s Pequot Ave.

    Did you know that, before he became a King Cornbag, Ted Nugent was capable of rock greatness? For example, his “Tooth, Fang & Claw” album had its moments — and I specifically bring that up in this space for a reason.

    You see, there’s a really good little restaurant on Pequot in New London called the James Brothers’ Claw & Rib. Yet I keep wanting to call Tooth, Fang & Claw.

    “Honey,” I’ll say to my wife, “I’m gonna head over to Tooth, Fang & Claw and get a Cuban or some pulled pork.”

    “You mean Claw & Rib.”

    Yes, dear. Anyway, this is one of my favorite recent culinary discoveries. Featuring a limited but well-conceptualized menu focused on barbecue, seafood and breakfast, Claw & Rib provides a welcome addition to New London’s casual dining scene.

    You’ve probably seen it because it’s that tiny spot tucked hard to Fred’s Shanty with a relaxed patio complete with sun-protective umbrellas. Inside is also quite comfy. The room is bright and rimmed with blonde-wood, picnic bench-style furniture. Suspended rolls of butcher paper boast handwritten daily specials. Behind the counter are the e’er friendly brothers and a selective crew of their pals — all of whom are absolutely committed to friendly service and good food. Which is exactly what happens.

    Pulled pork and babyback ribs comprise the barbecue aspect of the menu. The former is presented in sandwich form ($6), with a heaping mound of tangy, shredded hog shoulder piled on one side of a roll and ladled with a dark, slightly sweet sauce and a topping of crispy coleslaw. The other half of the bun is placed to one side because the James boys know it’s virtually impossible to handle this in conventional sandwich fashion. Attack!

    Ribs are available in three different sizes ($8.50 1/4 rack, $14.50 1/2 rack, $23 full rack). They’re house-brined before the application of a dry rub that seems to feature a bit of brown sugar and a more savory, hard-to-ID spice. It all works very well together, and the results after hours of slow-smoking are that the rub takes on a bit of an applique sheen that works just fine in contrast to the tender pork beneath.

    I ordered a full rack — typically eight-to 12 ribs depending on a lot of things — and I think it was assembled from two or even three different batches. This is perfectly fine because the kitchen is working with smaller orders. In any case, about half of my ribs had the fatty outer layer favored by many aficionados; the other half were very lean, which personally appeal to me. Either way, I loved the brine and flavor to the point where I only used dabs of sauce as punctuation. Worth noting: these aren’t fall-off-the-bone efforts, but the toothy experience of chewing the pork was totally pleasant.

    Anchoring the seafood angle are cold and hot lobster rolls ($10 1/5 pound, $15 1/3 pound, $20 1/2 pound). I tried the hot — and in a town where Captain Scott rocks just down the street, this is worthy competition. It’s really nice to have two options when summer crowds are congestive. Sweet claw and tail meat were stuffed into a U-shaped roll, which itself was buttered and grilled like Texas toast. More drawn butter was drizzled on the crustacean, and slices of lemon were provided for citrus kick. Wonderful.

    Of late, a frequent special worth noting is their Cuban sandwich (a massive bargain at $7). Generous slices of house-generated ham and pork were stacked high, complemented by Swiss cheese, grainy mustard, and the traditional dill pickle on the side. The sandwich didn’t seem pressed in the traditional manner — maybe because it’s too big — but it was truly terrific.

    From the sides and soups, I strongly recommend the New England clam chowder ($3.50 and $6.50), which was savory and just loaded with clam, potato chunks and bits of bacon. House-cut and skins-on French fries ($3.50) came in a huge portion and were delightful — particularly if you dip them in barbecue sauce.

    I haven’t yet tried many menu items, but watching patrons scarf the giant breakfast sandwiches, the huge and juice-oozing burgers, happily slurping the lobster bisque and enjoying platters of fish and chips make me hungry just thinking about them.

    I think you’ll enjoy the James Brothers’ efforts. Tell ‘em Ted Nugent sent you.

    James Brothers’ Claw & Rib

    262 Pequot Ave., New London

    (860) 405-4426, clawandrib.com

    Cuisine: Small but well-conceived array of breakfast, barbecue, seafood and more

    Atmosphere: Clean riverside spot with comfy outdoor patio and small dining room featuring bright, wood-hewn seating

    Service: Centered around the convivial James siblings, the mood and attention to customer satisfaction couldn’t be more earnest or pleasant.

    Hours: 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Wed.-Sun.

    Prices: Very moderate, particularly given the generous portions; a full rack of babyback pork ribs ($23) is the most expensive thing on the menu.

    Handicap access: Plenty of space inside or out, with easy in/out room for maneuvering

    Credit cards: All majors

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