Eight years into my post here at The Day, I can no longer call myself a newcomer to New London. While it’s fair to call myself a creature of habit who tends not to stray too far from State and Bank streets for lunch, I will allow that it is entirely ridiculous that last week marked my first two visits to the The Yolk Cafe.

Regulars know that one quickly becomes part of the family upon plunking down at The Yolk. I had no idea that such a fun community vibe was waiting for me there, and that alone is enough to bring me back. But factor in the delicious eats, and you’ve got a hometown haven.

Before I headed to The Yolk, I reviewed the menu online. They had me at “Huevos Rancheros” ($10), and off I went to Montauk Avenue with belly rumbling.

It’s a good thing I’d had a light breakfast that day, because while, of course, no one demanded I clear my plate, the huevos were so absolutely wonderful, I finished the whole dish. At The Yolk, the titular huevos are served on a bed of house-made arepas (a corn-based cake with cheese within) with a layer of refried beans between. Arepas are wonderful all by themselves, but paired with eggs and flavorful beans, they become spectacular. Atop, handfuls of cheddar cheese, bell peppers and scallions added flavor, texture and variety to the greatness beneath; swirls of sriracha sauce on the plate’s borders provided welcome bursts of red-pepper spice.

Only after I’d ordered the Huevos Rancheros did I notice a special item on the day’s menu: Jelly Donut Pancakes ($11). I was intrigued and made a note to try these special pancakes next visit. Fate had other plans, though.

As I chatted with The Yolk’s staff while settling the bill, we got to talking about the menu, and, naturally, the Jelly Donut Pancakes came up as Yolk proprietress extraordinnaire Doreen began prepping an order of them. She talked me through the whole process: spread a layer of vanilla pudding and strawberry jam to two big pancakes. Cut a hole in the center of the pancakes with a cookie cutter to create the “donut”; sprinkle with powdered and cinnamon sugar; feed the leftover “hole” to drooling patrons (me and a nearby regular).

While the jam really brings home the donut effect of dish, the pillowy soft pancakes and creamy pudding make for a heavenly sum total. This is filling stuff, to be sure, but paired with coffee and a buddy, it is breakfast done right.

The grilled house-made blueberry muffin ($3.50) I’d ordered had to wait until later, and even an hour or so after grilling, its buttery sweetness was beyond satisfying. Packed with berries, a less ambitious eater also could have a breakfast of champions with a Yolk blueberry muffin and coffee.

Stuffed, I ordered a veggie burger ($9.50) to go and was not able to tuck into it until hours later, with an assist from my husband. This is a huge sandwich on a beautiful hard roll, made with one of the best veggie patties I’ve tasted, with a texture like falafel and curry flavor. Citrus aioli, veggies and greens top the patty and create a crunchy, savory effect. The side of tortellini salad (other options included potatoes in various forms), loaded with wee bits of broccoli and dressed with tangy vinaigrette, rounded out a perfectly veggie-licious meal.

On my second visit, I discovered yet another gem on the lunch menu. When I ordered the Turkey Melt ($9.50), I figured it would be a safe, neutral staple to recommend to more traditional eaters. Well, what you get when you order the Turkey Melt is a fabulous meal, expertly constructed by the great Doreen. Tucked in a lightly grilled tomato wrap, the lucky recipient of the melt meets with smoky turkey, a fantastic cranberry aioli, a thick layer of smoked Gouda, bacon and spinach. I frequently run on about texture and how certain ingredients, for me, come off better chopped or diced, and this turkey melt is the ultimate expression of why I believe that to be true. It’s not just slabs of bacon tossed in the wrap, it’s crumbled bacon; every bite comes with some bacon-y crunch. You don’t encounter droopy leaves of spinach; you enjoy it chopped a bit as it mixes in with the rest of the ingredients. The cheese is melted; the turkey, also chopped, rubs elbows with the aioli. Everything about this wrap was perfect.

Half the wrap was all I could muster (the mister finished it for dinner and raved about it some more) because I went in hard on the order of corned beef hash ($5) we’d heard recommended and the Eggs Benedict ($10) my husband ordered. The hash is recommended with good reason: cubes and shredded bits of corned beef merge with some soft and some crispy potatoes. The result is nowhere near as heavy, salty or greasy as most — it’s just tasty.

As for the Eggs Bennie, we experienced greatness from top to bottom. My husband was so pleased with the Hollandaise sauce, he had to ask Doreen what magic she’d worked to create it. Sriracha is the secret, which, in this case, warmed up the overall flavor (with a perfect kiss of lemon) and added a mild kick of heat. Paired with the expertly poached eggs, Canadian bacon and the plus-size, very tasty English muffin, the Yolk’s Eggs Benedict could compete with any boutique brunch variation in NYC.

But really, save yourself the train ticket and enjoy the neighborhood feel and fare at The Yolk. You’ll leave with a full belly, a story or two and a renewed sense of community.

The Yolk Cafe

825 Montauk Ave., New London

(860) 437-0898

http://www.brokenyolkcafe.net 

Cuisine: Diner fare for breakfast and lunch

Atmosphere: Casual, cheery, familial

Service: Very friendly, but could be more efficient; on a recent holiday weekend visit, it took a follow-up request to get the coffees and waters we’d ordered 15 minutes earlier.

Prices: On the pricier side for diner fare (Huevos rancheros are $10), but the quality is worth it.

Hours: Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-2 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 7 a.m.-2 p.m.

Credit Cards: Yes, but cash preferred

Handicapped access: Street parking. No steps to enter, but very close quarters inside, with mostly stool seating; some booths available; outdoor seating is more spacious and comfortable in summertime heat.