It would probably have been easier to simply use the Google Maps app or even call for directions. It's only in Mystic, after all.

But, trying to get into the proper spirit, and considering we were going to a restaurant called Latitude 41, I decided to navigate literally — by determining precisely where the 41st latitude is through mathematical formulae, and then setting out as sailors of yore might have done. "Latitude," of course, is calculated in parallels with respect to an equatorial reference plane. If a point of the surface is north of that plane, it's a positive latitude. See how that narrows the scope?

Next, by grid-mapping and using a few calculations in what we call the Cartesian Coordinates — playful stuff I committed to memory years ago, just for fun — I determined that Latitude 41 is part of Mystic Seaport!

And that's how we arrived, two different times, at a very pleasant dining destination. Latitude 41, fronting Greenmanville Avenue on the right as you approach the Seaport from I-95, is sizeable and includes banquet facilities, two big dining rooms, a sitting room with a fireplace, and a wonderful tavern. Though the dining rooms are spacious and casually elegant — as welcoming to three-piece titans of industry as to casual tourists visiting the Seaport — the tavern captivated us on two visits. There are dark paneled walls, a pressed tin ceiling, plenty of historic Seaport photographs and seafarin' décor, and a small but nicely curated selection of draft beers.

While the menu indeed focuses on seafood, there are plenty of other possibilities, which is handy when accompanied by Eileen, the lovely Vegetarian Who Walks Among Us (TVWWAU).

You can get started in a variety of ways, via soups and salads, small plates and a raw bar. In addition to clam chowder and lobster bisque, there's a revolving soup du jour, and on our inaugural experience, a cup of cream of potato ($4, $6 bowl) was particularly appropriate for a boreal late-winter night. This version was robust, with a welcome, rich potato flavor, though pureed to a thick, smooth consistency.

Cold and briny Mystic oysters on the half shell ($2.75), served with an affectionate, tangy orange mignonette sauce, were delicious and contrasted nicely with two jumbo shrimp ($3 each). The house cocktail sauce was a bit sweet and could have used some horseradish. Creatively, I dipped the shrimp in the mignonette, and that seemed to work quite well.

The true star of the lead-off selections — maybe the true star of the universe — is the poutine ($6 small, $9 large). Even the small version is a huge portion. Giant, thick-cut French fries, with a crisply battered exterior and plenty of lightly seasoned tater flesh inside, are lathered in luxuriant melted cheddar and accompanied by peppered chicken gravy. A) You can't stop eating this even though B) you've already and stupidly ordered entrees for which you will no longer have an appetite.

Nonetheless, more food indeed arrived. Though there are several burgers and sandwiches available, including lobster rolls and an oyster po'boy, we were too tempted on both visits by the Main Plates opportunities.

On the recommendation of our friendly waitress — everyone at Latitude 41 is courteous and neighborly — I asked for Seafood Alfredo ($28). It was a hit-and-miss effort. The wide Pappardelle pasta was beautifully cooked, with a slightly chewy consistency and responded eagerly to a velveteen and buttery sauce. Tri-colored roasted peppers offered a tart twist. But while the trio of scallops had a nice char and flavor, three shrimp and a claw's worth of lobster meat were overcooked and rubbery.

Eileen fared much better with a dish called the Mediterranean ($21). She was attracted to the bounty of vegetables over Pappardelle noodles: roasted garlic and red peppers, shallots, capers, Kalamata olives and artichoke hearts. Fortunately, as she'd earlier asked whether the potato soup was vegetarian, our thoughtful waitress pointed out a typo on the menu description of the Mediterranean, which didn't mention the dish typically comes with chicken. The chef was happy to prepare it without the fowl, and it was a truly fine effort. The flavors in the sauce tended towards Greek and away from Italian sources, and the capers provided a significant spark.

On our next visit, I tried the fish & chips ($19). A truly laudable batch! To start, you get the same wondrous fries that served as the anchor for the poutine — a heaping plateful. On top were two enormous carvings of fresh cod, each delicately bathed in a pale ale batter and then flash fried. The beer adds an exquisite, slight touch of bitterness to the brittle coating that contrasted magically with the flakes of white fish. Really nice, and no grease at all.

TVWWAU enjoyed a vegetable risotto ($20), a jam session featuring such virtuosos as arborio rice, roasted mushrooms, asparagus, shaved Parmesan and a crispy Vegetable Mirepoix. The cream sauce was sumptuous, with clever grace notes of sherry.

It's worth noting there's acoustic music in the lounge on Fridays and Saturdays — but it was pleasant and never overpowering in terms of dinner conversation.

Latitude 41

105 Greenmanville Ave., Mystic

(860) 572-5303

Cuisine: upscale seafood and entrees with plenty of pleasant and well prepared comfort and pub food.

Service: friendly, helpful

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri. and Sat., 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Sun.; worth noting: spring and summer fulltime hours coming in April

Atmosphere: dining rooms roomy and casually elegant; pub is welcoming and comfy

Prices: soups, salads and small plates $6-$19, burgers and sandwiches $12-$22, main plates $19-34

Handicap access: steps up to main level and a long walk from parking lot; inside has plenty of room for maneuvering