Coming home to a toasty house is always a treat on a chilly winter evening. But if you have a drafty home, you'll soon be dismayed to be buffeted by cold air that has entered the room.

Drafts are more than just an uncomfortable nuisance. Cold air also signifies that heated air is escaping the home, leading to higher heating bills.

Finding and sealing sources of air leaks can go a long way toward reducing drafts in your home. It will also improve the efficiency of your home's heating system, helping you to save money.

Leak detection

Consider getting a professional energy audit of your home. This will not only pinpoint any air leaks, but also look out for other energy savings such as places that need improved insulation.

A blower door test is a key tool in identifying openings in the home. The Department of Energy says this test depressurizes the home, after which an auditor will look through the home for sources of heat loss. Infrared scanning may also be used to see where warm air is escaping.

You can also conduct your own rudimentary pressurization test by turning off all combustion appliances and shutting all doors and windows. You can then turn on exhaust fans that vent air to the outside, like the clothes dryer and fans in the bathroom and kitchen. By walking around the home with a lit incense stick or even just a damp hand, you can detect where drafts are located.

A visual inspection may be sufficient to identify likely culprits for heat loss. Check any areas where building materials come together, such as corners and the junction of the foundation and siding. You should also check out any openings in the building's structure, such as where vents and cables enter the home.

Windows and doors

Windows and doors are often one of the largest culprits when it comes to drafts. If they are poorly installed or inefficient, they'll leave gaps or cracks through which air can move freely.

Windows can be particularly troublesome, since they do a poorer job of blocking air flow when compared to insulated walls and ceilings. In particularly drafty areas, you can use heavy drapes, thermal plastic sheets, or other measures to cover the window and block the air flow.

If a window or door was not properly installed, they won't be properly sealed against the elements. Family Handyman says that if you suspect that this is the cause of a draft, you can remove the interior trim to check out the opening between the wall framing and window jamb. If the space is open and uninsulated, you can plug it with a foam sealant.

Removing the trim isn't always an option, and it may be a more arduous and time-consuming process than is necessary. Jeff Beneke, writing for Popular Mechanics, says an application of caulk on the interior and exterior edges of the window edges may be enough to block the drafts. Rope caulk offers a temporary option which can fit into gaps and be removed at a later date when you want to open a window.

Weather-stripping is also a necessary feature to block drafts around windows and doors. This material is applied around moving parts to create a tight seal when shut. Jeanne Huber, writing for the home improvement site HouseLogic, says door sweeps are inexpensive and block a significant amount of air from entering underneath the door.

If your windows or doors are particularly old and inefficient, it may be time to replace them. The Department of Energy says they'll be more problematic if they rattle, if you can see visible gaps, or if the storm windows are broken or poorly fitted.

Fireplaces

The damper of the fireplace should be securely closed when the fireplace is not in use. However, the fireplace can still provide a ready opening for heated air to escape from your home.

The flue can warp or crack when exposed to repeated heating and cooling, and this can increase the possibility of air leaks. An inflatable chimney balloon can be inserted into the flue when the fireplace is not in use to block air flow, and can be easily removed if you wish to build a fire. The device will also deflate quickly if you forget to remove it first. If you never use the fireplace, you can permanently install this mechanism or another form of insulation to prevent heat loss through the chimney.

A fireplace insert will also eliminate the heat loss of an open chimney. Beneke says it will also be able to heat a room more efficiently than a traditional fireplace.

To reduce fire risk, building codes require that wooden framing be kept a few inches away from brick chimneys or metal flues. Huber says you can seal these gaps with aluminum flashing and caulk rated for high temperatures.

Attics and basements

Heat rises, so you'll naturally want to make sure the attic isn't letting too much warm air out. If you have a hatchway into the attic, installing weather-stripping or an insulated hatch cover can minimize heat loss from the home into the upper story.

Look for any openings in the ceiling as well, particularly those that lead into the attic. Recessed light fixtures are a common culprit, and can be sealed with airtight baffles. Beneke says ducts, plumbing, electrical wires, and other components can also create openings which should be sealed with foam insulation.

Cold air that enters the basement can easily make its way into other parts of the home. Look for any gaps or openings, especially where the first floor of the home meets the foundation. Huber says caulk works well for gaps of up to a quarter-inch, after which spray foam is preferable. Make sure to use caulk rated for high temperatures near hot materials, such as furnace pipes.

Other openings

Openings in the walls can allow a surprising amount of cold air into the home. The Department of Energy says leaks can occur in areas such as electrical outlets, light switches, baseboards, and around cable or phone lines.

Inspect the walls where openings have been cut for systems such as plumbing or ductwork and seal any gaps around them with caulk or foam. Foam gaskets can be installed behind outlets and switch plates to keep air from escaping through these points.