Its name conjures images of the past, but Vintage in Colchester serves up comfort food that reflects modern culinary sensibilities to great effect.

The name Vintage is a nod to our region’s agricultural past and present — the traditions of which the eatery hopes to carry on into the future by offering a menu that showcases the fruits of local farms.

That includes the burgers, sourced from JT Farms in Ellington (starting at $9), which make up the bulk of Vintage’s menu and run a colorful gamut. The build-your-own burger menu offers many, many ways to customize your burger, and the available toppings show off many of the good things going on at Connecticut’s farms, from Maggie’s Farm mushrooms (add $2); Cold Spring Farm baby spinach (gratis); and pea shoots and radishes from Tiny Acre Farm in Woodstock (add $1) to cheeses from Cato Corner Farms and the house-made mustard and sauces.

The House Burger list ups the ante a bit, with staff-curated combinations that feature headier, heartier local toppings like house-made pork pate; eggs and JT Farms bacon; and braised pork from Cold Spring Farm. Be aware that the menu options change just about weekly, so while you might find, say, the Breakfast Burger ($15) on the menu one week, it might shift off the list the next, but it’ll be back.

We sampled one burger from each list, starting with the Bahn Mi Burger ($14), a rich, indulgent construction of beef topped with the aforementioned house pork pate and pea shoots plus spicy ginger mayo and turmeric ginger sauerkraut from Pigeon Cove Ferments out of Massachusetts. Thankfully, the accompanying side of shoestring fries was on the smaller side because, as you might’ve guessed, a thick, juicy burger (cooked perfectly to order) topped with another layer of meat is filling fare indeed. Still, the combination and layering of textures — crunchy slaw; savory pate; and super soft brioche bun — and great balance of flavors made for a burger experience to be remembered.

Burger two was a simpler affair that we created off the Stack One menu. One medium rare burger (also cooked to satisfaction) with Womanchego Cheese (Cato Corner’s answer to Manchego) and all the gratis house toppings: ketchup, mustard, spinach, and onion ($11). As notable as the Banh Mi burger was, I just love a good cheeseburger, and they don’t get much better than Vintage’s. A hand-made patty is always going to be tender and flavorful, and fresh ingredients that haven’t traveled far always add a layer of satisfaction.

Aside from the burgers, Vintage offers a handful of other options, smaller plate “Snacks,” and a few house specials. On a recent visit, the house offered a delectable Corned Beef special ($27) featuring a generous heap of house-prepared corned beef, with the excellent twist of a mustard-maple glaze and the resulting caramelization. Think of the tastiest beef jerky you’ve ever had and add a touch of sweetness and the tenderness of a slow roast. It was fabulous and a perfect partner to the very, very good Guinness-glazed carrots and Brussels leaves served on the side. Here’s hoping that special makes it onto a regular rotation.

And while we were surprised to find a short list of taco options on a burger-dominant menu, the table agreed they are a must-order item. What’s particularly convenient is you can order as few or as many as you’d like. From a list of four choices we went with two Short Rib tacos ($6 each). If the Corned Beef tacos weren’t sold out, we’d have jumped at the chance to try one. (Other options included fish tacos and a bleu cheese/mushroom combination.) I have to guess any option will be enjoyable if the house-made tortillas are any indicator. With fresh corn flavor and a touch of crispness, they are an outstanding vehicle for likely any filling. The Short Rib didn’t disappoint, from the tender, tasty beef to the crisp coleslaw and house barbecue sauce. The combo sounds unconventional as tacos go, but it works well; and this is coming from a formerly coleslaw-phobic gal. As it turns out, I just don’t like bad coleslaw.

Given my coleslaw hesitation, you might understand my caution with sauerkraut. Cabbage-y things need to done just right for me to tuck in; otherwise, the pungent odor and flavor is going to turn me off. Enter Vintage’s Sourdough Toast ($8 for two slices), an item on the Snacks menu that pairs ginger turmeric sauerkraut with more of that house-made pork pate upon hearty sourdough toast. There’s a lot of flavor going on here, and it’s oddly filling, so I recommend sharing this dish if you’re planning on having burgers too. As for the sauerkraut, a ginger turmeric treatment is just the right speed for me — the zing of the ginger balances out the tang of the cabbage, if you will. It’s a great accent for the pate, which delivers a deep dose of smoky, pork flavor. As for the bread, it was toasty, toothy and terrific.

Another snack we sampled won raves all around, with competing forks aiming for the last bits of it on the plate. If you see the Biscuit and Gravy snack on the menu ($11), order it. It’s more than you might think. First, throw away all preconceived notions you might have of what sausage gravy is or should taste like, because Vintage has crafted a savory, earthy take on what so frequently turns into salty white goo in other establishments. The gravy was good enough to stand on its own, rendering the perfectly tasty cornbread biscuit second fiddle. As for the lightly fried duck egg that is served with the biscuit and gravy? We’ll call it a draw for fan favorite part of this very well done dish.

Did you ever think you’d find a restaurant around these parts with pate and sausage gravy on the same menu? It seems the local flavors of Connecticut are more eclectic than we thought, and Vintage is doing a fine job of defining the next generation of locavore cuisine.

Vintage

16 Main St., Colchester

(860) 537-2464

https://vintagect.com

Cuisine: A farm-to-table mostly burger joint with creative small plates and a big emphasis on local ingredients. You'll see items from Cato Corner Farm, Cold Spring Farm and beyond featured frequently on the menu. BYOB.

Service: Welcoming, friendly, and just the right speed.

Hours: Closed Monday and Tuesday; Wednesday, 4-9 p.m.; Thursday to Saturday, lunch served noon-3 p.m. and dinner 5-10 p.m.; Sunday, lunch noon-3 p.m. and dinner 4-8 p.m. Note: These are listed as Winter hours on the menu; check back for spring or summertime changes.

Atmosphere: Old-school lunch counter meets mod-country kitsch. Tables and chairs are nothing fancy, but the vibe is very nice. Check out the beautiful bar top while taking a peek into the open kitchen.

Prices: Reasonable for the quality of food. The priciest item we tried was the $27 Corned Beef dinner on the specials list that day; burgers start at $9; apps average around $9.

Credit cards: Accepted

Reservations: Accepted

Handicapped access: There's a ramp around the back where you'll also find your best chance of a parking space. Interior (including the one-person bathroom) makes the best of a small space.