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    Sunday, April 28, 2024

    Paddle over to Abby’s Place: The views are free

    Lunch with a view at Abby's Place in Essex; the pool belongs to the neighboring marina. (Marisa Nadolny/The Day)
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    If you like your meals with a side of stunning water views, consider a trip to Abby’s Place in Essex.

    Tucked in the sprawling Brewer Dauntless Shipyard & Marina complex just off Main Street, Abby’s spacious outdoor deck offers postcard-perfect views of the Connecticut River and the many boats docked in it; indoors, charming, whimsical, beach-chic decor greets guests. As for the cuisine, it measures up well to its lovely surroundings.

    For most of the year, Abby’s is a breakfast and lunch operation, but come summertime, dinner is on the menu through Labor Day weekend. A group of us ate there recently, and all four main entrees for dinner were all surf, no turf, so don’t go by the online sample menu that lists a few non-seafood entree options (burgers are available elsewhere on the menu).

    In the interest of science, we simply HAD to try the Lobster Mac and Cheese ($28). Three out of four of us thought it was quite good, and it seemed to deliver on the quarter-pound of lobster meat the menu boasted (we don’t tend to travel with scales, so we took Abby’s word for it). It was bathed in a thinner cheese sauce than some mac and cheeses, and I particularly enjoyed the choice of gemelli pasta in this version; it’s a good shape for cheese sauce retention. The one of us who wasn’t entirely thrilled with it prefers a thicker bechamel. Still, lightly spiced with maybe cayenne or paprika, it carried the luxe lobster flavor nicely.

    Two of us chose cheeseburgers ($13.50) that night, and it’s very possible they were better than the lobster mac. Ordered medium and medium rare, both big, fat, juicy Angus patties arrived as expected. Served with lettuce and tomato on a pillow-soft roll, we couldn’t help but smugly share our wise choices with our companions — luckily, the patties were big enough to inspire such generosity. The accompanying french fries and sweet potato fries with each were both excellent specimens of this common side: crisp on the outside, almost creamy on the inside.

    Another highlight was the Pecan and Goat salad ($13.25), a mix of field greens, dollops of just-right-tangy goat cheese, toasted pecans and dried cherries, served with a side of delicious sherry vinaigrette. A modest dash of the dressing enlivened an already tasty salad combination. Paired with the soup of the day, a veggie/barley/bean soup ($5.25) starring veggies from the proprietress’s own garden, according to our server, one could walk away from dinner feeling filled and healthy. As for that soup, it didn’t strike us as anything spectacular, but we certainly appreciated the native veggies. However, Abby’s Signature New England Clam Chowder ($6) won approval all around, although one of us, again, would’ve preferred a thicker broth, but, as the menu noted, the soup is not made with a roux and is therefore gluten-free. Not a problem: loaded with red-bliss potatoes cut into bite-size chunks and ample clam bits plus the broth’s buttery flavor, the chowder made for a filling fest of savory goodness.

    Abby’s offers a well-crafted list of cocktails, and we did our best to try a good representation of them; we ended up trying two because our first choice, the Tequila My Dreams — a mix of tequila, house-made sour mix, seltzer, cilantro and lime — was unavailable. No sour mix, the waitress told us. Note to the house: stock up on sour mix at dinnertime.

    Instead, two of us tried the King of Scots ($14) — Hendrick’s Gin, Hartford Flavor Company Wild Moon cucumber liqueur and fresh lime — and enjoyed them after recovering from the initial cucumber punch. As the ice melted and the lime did its work, the concoction became downright refreshing. My friend’s Bright and Sunny ($9.50) was just that. What else could Gosling’s rum and ginger beer, pineapple juice, and Malibu on ice deliver?

    In an effort to try some more of Abby’s lighter fare, we sampled two items from the lunch menu, and they were both outstanding. Where we thought the Turkey Caprese wrap ($12.50) would be a good basic item to try, it was anything but; indeed, it was standout delicious. The sizable wrap is filled with roasted, carved, tender turkey that melded perfectly with lots of lettuce, tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and pesto sauce. This is a great lunch option that won’t leave you in a food coma.

    The veggie burger ($12; comes with chips, fries or salad) is among the best I’ve had, thanks to wise construction that includes lots of melted cheese, pesto sauce, stewed, tangy tomatoes and greens atop the veggie-filled patty (you could see bits of carrot in it). Another one of those perfect rolls kept all contained nicely. A nice bonus was meeting Abby herself, who brought out the burger, introduced herself and wished me a good meal.

    And, who is this Abby, anyway? You actually might know her. According to the restaurant’s website, Abby Miner grew up in Waterford on an organic farm. She credits her mother with inspiring her culinary career.

    Well done, Mom.

    Abby’s Place

    37 Pratt St., Essex

    abbysplacect.com

    (860) 767-0560 

    Cuisine: “Classic American cuisine,” per the website, with many locally sourced ingredients

    Atmosphere: Casual and summery, with views of the Connecticut River; plenty of outdoor seating and a charming main dining area bedecked in green and blue ornaments offset by white walls.

    Service: Very warm and welcoming lunch crew; courteous dinner staff

    Prices: Moderate; entrees top out at $28; salads start at $12.50, sandwiches average around $11

    Hours: Tuesday through Sunday (breakfast and lunch only), 8 a.m.-3 p.m., and breakfast ends at 11 a.m.; Thursday, Friday and Saturday, breakfast served 8-11 a.m.; lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; light fare 3-5:30 p.m.; and dinner 5:30-8:30 p.m.

    Credit cards: All majors

    Reservations: Accepted

    Handicapped access: Ramp available from parking lot; uncomplicated entryway; interior and deck area are spacious.

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