I find diners fascinating. By design, the fare is simple and tastily basic and affordable — mostly breakfast or lunch menus — and within those parameters it’s difficult to apply rigid standards of culinary sophistication.

Typically, then, they become “local” because of neighborhood convenience. Why would someone in Groton, for example, drive to East Lyme to get scrambled eggs and sausage if there were a decent place nearby?

But I LIKE different diner experiences. It’s almost like taking a mini-vacation — at least on my budget — because I’m suddenly immersed in a distinctly “local” environment. I could almost write and mail myself postcards from each diner. “See where I’ve been? Wish you were here! Oh, you ARE here. Anyway, the omelet was great!”

This all sprang to mind recently when I visited Breakfast at Diana’s in Uncasville. If I’d been suffering from amnesia and couldn’t remember anything else, I’d definitely know I was in the United States.

These colors won’t run

That’s because the décor at Diana’s might be described as Patriotic Chic.

The walls are flag-colored — which is to say bright red and vivid blue and sparkled with large white stars. On support pillars and any available space throughout are shoulder patches from all manners of police and fire departments, military branches, EMT, care flight and rescue organizations — tapestries of embroidered support. The menu proclaims “free coffee for all EMT, fire, military, police” and “anyone on a Harley 😊.”

Framed slogans such as “Land of the Free” are prominently displayed, and waitresses wear red or blue T-shirts with calligraphically accurate quotes from the Constitution. The Diana’s staff is very congenial and quick to help whether you’re at a table, booth or the counter.

The breakfast offerings include two- or three-egg dishes with the usual bacon/sausage, home fries/toast options as well as such things as homemade corned beef hash, chorizo, ribeye steak, teriyaki steak and kielbasa.

A wide range of three-egg omelets are available, as are breakfast sandwiches, “Benedict” dishes, combo plates, fruit crepes, French toast and pancakes.

My heart thanks me

But what caught my eye was the hamburger steak with two eggs ($14.25). When I mentioned this to my waitress, she said, “Y’know, you can get that chicken-fried with sausage gravy.” Yes!

Two plates arrived. The flying saucer-shaped beef occupied one. The perfectly brittle crust provided a fine counterpoint to the juicy beef, and the generous ladling of thick cream gravy, with pellets of sausage, was the sort of creation that should serve as a destination for any wise persons. The other plate was heaped with home fries — lightly seared cubes of seasoned potato — deftly cooked scrambled eggs, and two slices of rye toast coated with butter.

My wife Eileen, working at home, asked if I’d bring her a Greek omelet ($12.25), and she raved about the lightly tossed eggs brimming with vibrant fresh tomato and spinach and a pleasant clash with tartly sour Feta cheese.

Lunch and more breakfast

A few days later, I returned for lunch with a friend. The grill provides burgers, dogs, a few steaks; sandwiches and wraps include chicken salad, egg salad, tuna salad and more; and there are a few salads and soups.

Let me say I’m proud to have devoured an incredibly excellent chili cheese dog ($11.25). The foot-long and butterflied dog, grilled and popping with flavor, was nestled on a buttered and toasted bun, with a shredded mound of cheddar and a beefy layer of very fine house-made chili. A heap of crisp fries ably supported the presentation.

On our waitresses’ recommendation, we also ordered a chicken salad sandwich ($11.25). They make their own at Diana’s, and it features big hunks of breast meat and (I think) a bit of diced celery) in just enough mayo to hold it all together. The generous serving flowed over the parameters of the requested rye bread, and crisp lettuce and tomato gave the effort a nice textural flavor clash.

I look forward to my next visit to Breakfast at Diana’s. It’s well worth a drive from my New London home to eat their diner-y fare.

Breakfast at Diana’s

1100 Route 32

Uncasville

(860) 892-8118

Cuisine: Classic diner breakfast and lunch

Atmosphere: Red, white and blue

Service: Quick and efficient and jocular

Prices: Consistent with similar restaurants with very large portions

Credit cards: Yes

Handicapped accessibility: Yes; a sidewalk ramp and plenty of room

Reservations: N/A

Hours: 5:30 a.m.-2 p.m. daily