Dill is something of an overlooked member of the fresh herb family. It’s not as sharp and summery as basil, not as versatile as parsley, not as polarizing as cilantro, and not as aromatic as rosemary. But it has a bright, fresh flavor of its own that pairs well with everything from lemon to potatoes to salmon.

Yet even those who appreciate dill, primarily think of it as a seasoning — a flavor accent — not a main ingredient in a dish. I never would have thought to use it any other way, but when I came across a recipe for an Indian chickpea curry that treats dill as a vegetable and uses it in quantities to match, I was intrigued.

I discovered the recipe in a cookbook I bought a few years ago called “5 Spices, 50 Dishes.” It’s an interesting read — an Indian cookbook that attempts to streamline the often long ingredient lists in Indian dishes by building recipes centered around just five essential spices: coriander, cumin, mustard seeds, turmeric, and cayenne.

I had made and liked the dish a few times in the past, but when I decided to write about it for this column, I chose it partly because of its short ingredient list and simple cooking techniques. What I didn’t anticipate was how difficult it would be to locate fresh dill. In the summer, I grow it in my garden, but out of the three grocery stores on my way home from work, only one had fresh dill available — and it was in those tiny plastic containers with about three leaves per package.

I was desperate, so I bought out the entire supply on the produce shelf. Twelve tiny packages and seventeen dollars later, I had barely enough for the recipe. Ridiculous? Perhaps. But if you can find fresh dill in the large bunches I typically buy it in, this is a very economical recipe that makes an easy, tasty weeknight meal.

If you’re not a fan of spicy food, you can dial back on the cayenne called for in the recipe by half or more. If you can obtain whole coriander seeds, I highly recommend using them here (grind them with a spice grinder or a mortar and pestle) for a brighter flavor than pre-ground coriander provides.

Chickpea Curry with Fresh Dill

Adapted from “5 Spices, 50 Dishes” (Chronicle Books, 2007)

Ingredients

2 tablespoons canola, grapeseed, or other neutral oil

1 large yellow onion, finely chopped

1 teaspoon cayenne (or less, to taste)

1½ teaspoons coriander seeds, finely ground

2 teaspoons minced garlic (about 4 cloves)

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes

3 cups finely chopped dill leaves and tender stalks (about 2 bunches)

2 15.5-ounce cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

Juice of ½ lemon

½ cup water

1½ teaspoons salt

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it is hot, add the onion and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the cayenne, coriander, garlic, ginger, and turmeric, and stir for 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the diced tomato, dill, chickpeas, water, and salt. Simmer until the dill is soft and tender, about 5 minutes, and remove from heat. Off the heat, add the lemon juice and chopped parsley. Taste, adjust seasoning if necessary, and serve with rice.

Emily Clark, an editor, enjoys discovering new recipes and perfecting old ones in her East Lyme kitchen. She can be reached at savoringseasons@gmail.com.