If you are unwilling to consider spending $100 for a Chinese dinner for two, with drinks, stop reading now. If, however, your budget allows, and you are curious about the flavorful recipes of regional Chinese cuisine, then I recommend a visit to Foxwoods' Golden Dragon.

Golden Dragon is Foxwoods' principal player in the Asian food department. It can be found on the third floor near the Grand Pequot entrance, flanked by luxury gift shops and one floor above David Burke's Prime.In this otherwise auspicious location, my partner and I were surprised to find the restaurant almost empty on a recent Tuesday evening. I hope this was only an aberration, since Golden Dragon is one of the few Chinese restaurants in the region that branches out, if in a small way, to explore beyond the commonplace Cantonese standards.

In this otherwise auspicious location, my partner and I were surprised to find the restaurant almost empty on a recent Tuesday evening. I hope this was only an aberration, since Golden Dragon is one of the few Chinese restaurants in the region that branches out, if in a small way, to explore beyond the commonplace Cantonese standards.The long and comprehensive menu is broken into individual courses and the usual seafood, meat, and poultry sections. You can find the classic Honey Glazed Walnut Prawns ($24) but the more adventurous might try the Sautéed Semi-Dry Squid with Yellow Chives, a hefty $32 and something you aren't likely to find anywhere else between Boston and New York. Alaskan salmon is prepared in a Szechuan style, pan fried with snow peas and water chestnuts and served with a Szechuan peppercorn sauce ($20).

The long and comprehensive menu is broken into individual courses and the usual seafood, meat, and poultry sections. You can find the classic Honey Glazed Walnut Prawns ($24) but the more adventurous might try the Sautéed Semi-Dry Squid with Yellow Chives, a hefty $32 and something you aren't likely to find anywhere else between Boston and New York. Alaskan salmon is prepared in a Szechuan style, pan fried with snow peas and water chestnuts and served with a Szechuan peppercorn sauce ($20).You can also tuck into a Maine lobster with your choice of ginger and scallion, black bean, or Cantonese sauces ($75). And, yes, Moo Shu pork is available for $18, as well as General Tso's Chicken, at $17.95.

You can also tuck into a Maine lobster with your choice of ginger and scallion, black bean, or Cantonese sauces ($75). And, yes, Moo Shu pork is available for $18, as well as General Tso's Chicken, at $17.95.Our order of Mongolian Beef ($14.75), another Chinese-American standard, had a mildly spicy, rich sauce that only gradually displayed an undertone of heat from red chilies. The shredded beef was well paired with sliced onions and scallions, and my only complaint with the otherwise delicious dish was the scarcity of crispy rice noodles that were supposed to accompany it.

Our order of Mongolian Beef ($14.75), another Chinese-American standard, had a mildly spicy, rich sauce that only gradually displayed an undertone of heat from red chilies. The shredded beef was well paired with sliced onions and scallions, and my only complaint with the otherwise delicious dish was the scarcity of crispy rice noodles that were supposed to accompany it.There is a big selection of noodles and noodle soups. I hadn't seen the classic Velvet sweet corn soup since my last trip to China, but here it was, a combination of minced chicken, sweet corn, and egg white ($6).

There is a big selection of noodles and noodle soups. I hadn't seen the classic Velvet sweet corn soup since my last trip to China, but here it was, a combination of minced chicken, sweet corn, and egg white ($6).We were lured by Golden Dragon's offering of seven clay-pot recipes, comprising meats and vegetables gently steamed in traditional Chinese clay casseroles. Our order of Sonoma duck, braised with taro root and herbs in a Hoisin sauce, included over a dozen pieces of hacked duck - bone, meat, and skin - very gently braised and so mildly flavored that the slight gaminess of the duck came through.

We were lured by Golden Dragon's offering of seven clay-pot recipes, comprising meats and vegetables gently steamed in traditional Chinese clay casseroles. Our order of Sonoma duck, braised with taro root and herbs in a Hoisin sauce, included over a dozen pieces of hacked duck - bone, meat, and skin - very gently braised and so mildly flavored that the slight gaminess of the duck came through.Excellent white rice accompanies each meal.

Excellent white rice accompanies each meal.There was nothing particularly ambitious about our first courses, which included two fried spring rolls filled with julienned carrots and cabbage, and four plump and fresh shrimp skewered, dipped in batter, and lightly fried. These were served with a trio of sauces including hot mustard, duck sauce, and a "House Special Shrimp Sauce" that tasted suspiciously like Russian dressing.

There was nothing particularly ambitious about our first courses, which included two fried spring rolls filled with julienned carrots and cabbage, and four plump and fresh shrimp skewered, dipped in batter, and lightly fried. These were served with a trio of sauces including hot mustard, duck sauce, and a "House Special Shrimp Sauce" that tasted suspiciously like Russian dressing.The restaurant's online appetizer menu also includes a selection of Dim Sum, or small plates of fried and steamed dumplings and other savories. These were not available on the evening of our visit, which was too bad, for along with shu mai and har gow ($6.95 and $8.95, respectively), which are central to any Dim Sum menu, Golden Dragon offers the more unusual fried taro dumplings ($7) and Chinese sausage turnip cakes ($5.50).

The restaurant's online appetizer menu also includes a selection of Dim Sum, or small plates of fried and steamed dumplings and other savories. These were not available on the evening of our visit, which was too bad, for along with shu mai and har gow ($6.95 and $8.95, respectively), which are central to any Dim Sum menu, Golden Dragon offers the more unusual fried taro dumplings ($7) and Chinese sausage turnip cakes ($5.50).Unfortunately, fearing a surfeit of food, we neglected to order a vegetable course, a fact that was painfully underscored when a glistening mound of sautéed, emerald-green Chinese broccoli arrived at an adjoining table. Golden Dragon also offers bok choy (Chinese cabbage), tofu with black mushrooms, and string beans with minced pork. Most vegetable courses run around $10.50.

Unfortunately, fearing a surfeit of food, we neglected to order a vegetable course, a fact that was painfully underscored when a glistening mound of sautéed, emerald-green Chinese broccoli arrived at an adjoining table. Golden Dragon also offers bok choy (Chinese cabbage), tofu with black mushrooms, and string beans with minced pork. Most vegetable courses run around $10.50.Desserts offer no surprises and include lychees, ice creams, and red bean soup. Coconut pudding ($6.50) could have been cloying but instead was light, barely sweetened, and satisfying, with a persistent but not objectionable coconut flavor. The garnish of canned mandarins, however, struck me as lame.

Desserts offer no surprises and include lychees, ice creams, and red bean soup. Coconut pudding ($6.50) could have been cloying but instead was light, barely sweetened, and satisfying, with a persistent but not objectionable coconut flavor. The garnish of canned mandarins, however, struck me as lame.Service on the night of our visit was very good. Our sole complaint was that main courses were delivered to the table hard on the heels of the first courses. We asked to have them held in the kitchen, and as a consequence, they were tepid when they at last arrived.

Service on the night of our visit was very good. Our sole complaint was that main courses were delivered to the table hard on the heels of the first courses. We asked to have them held in the kitchen, and as a consequence, they were tepid when they at last arrived. On two occasions close to parting we were wished "good luck," and in that simple assumption - that we were off to the gambling floors - lies perhaps the explanation for the kitchen's speed in turning out dishes.

On two occasions close to parting we were wished "good luck," and in that simple assumption - that we were off to the gambling floors - lies perhaps the explanation for the kitchen's speed in turning out dishes.Many restaurants do many of these dishes adequately and even sometimes very well. Golden Dragon's claim to our attention is in the more unusual dishes that, even if briefly, open windows onto the infinite riches of Chinese regional cooking.

Many restaurants do many of these dishes adequately and even sometimes very well. Golden Dragon's claim to our attention is in the more unusual dishes that, even if briefly, open windows onto the infinite riches of Chinese regional cooking.

GOLDEN DRAGON

Foxwoods Resort Casino

Mashantucket

(860) 312-3000, ext. 36404

www.foxwoods.com/Dining

Cuisine: Classic and regional Chinese. There are a few vegetarian dishes, including clay pot casseroles.

Atmosphere: A bright space with several dozen tables and banquettes is situated between a huge open kitchen and a glass wall facing onto the shopping mall.

Prices: Moderate to expensive.

Reservations: Call when major performers are on stage.

Service: Very good, if occasionally rushed.

Credit cards: All major credit cards.

Hours: Open seven days at 11:30 a.m.; closes at 1 a.m., except Tuesday, when it closes at 11 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, when it closes at 2 a.m.

Handicapped access: The casino is adapted for all handicap needs. Elevators provide easy access from the lobby to the third floor, where the restaurant is located.