We had a reservation when we visited The Mariner on a recent Saturday evening, and it’s a good thing we did. As we walked in, other folks were walking out, disappointed after hearing that without a reservation it would be a 90-minute wait.

We had arrived a few minutes early, fortunate to have quickly found a parking spot in busy downtown Mystic, allowing us a few minutes to look around as they cleared and set our table. For locals who haven’t visited in a while, The Mariner, previously The Ancient Mariner, underwent a big remodel about three years ago, and the blue and white interior is bright, welcoming, and very nautical, with seafaring accents.

The property is part of the holdings of the same group behind Via Emilia, which is right across West Main Street, as well as Bar Emilia in Westerly, and the coming Trattoria Amalfi, which is set to open soon in the former Go Fish in Olde Mistick Village. Owners Shaun Golan and Jakub Andros have got a lot on their plate, pun intended.

While their other restaurants focus on Italian, The Mariner menu serves up seafood, steaks, lamb chops, and shoreline favorites such as fried scallops, clam strips, fish and chips, and a hot lobster roll. They have pasta, too, but there are plenty of other options.

We were seated in a banquette, opposite the bar, and it was a great vantage point to see other diners at their tables and waitstaff going by with trays of beverages and plates of food.

After looking over the menu and hearing from our waiter, who made some suggestions, we started with the Charred Brussels Sprouts, $12, and the Meatballs, $15, to enjoy with our cocktails.

Nearly every restaurant seems to have Brussels sprouts on their menu now (the same with calamari), and Mariner’s with smoked bacon and honey were very good. The sprouts were tender and still green, not overcooked and blackened like they sometimes can be, and they melded nicely with the chopped bacon and honey.

The meatballs were just OK. It was a generous serving, three good-sized meatballs, but there was too much mozzarella melted over the top. I know. Who complains about too much cheese? But we ordered meatballs, not cheeseballs, and all that gooey cheese overpowered the dish and made eating them a messy struggle.

For entrees, we went with our waiter’s recommendation on the Chicken Pot Pie, $28, which was outstanding, especially on the cold November night we visited. The puff pastry crust was golden brown, and its flavor was buttery. Enveloped inside were the roasted chicken and root vegetables in a light, creamy sauce, like gravy. The dish was near perfect and big enough to take home for another meal the day after.

We also ordered a special, the local catch, a pan-seared fluke ($32) resting on a smear of sinfully good cauliflower puree, with additional roasted cauliflower, smashed roasted potatoes, baby kale, slivered almonds, and golden raisins. It was a hit. The fish was moist and flavorful, and the smattering of almonds and raisins added bites of crunch and sweet to the two versions of cauliflower.

We had considered ordering the Hot Lobster Roll, $29, touted by The Mariner as “the best lobster roll in town,” but were won over by the fluke special instead. When I saw that the guy at the table next to us did get the lobster roll, I leaned over to ask his opinion when he was about halfway through. It was good, he said, but not the best he’d ever had, and then he looked longingly at his dining partner’s fluke special.

Our waiter had cautioned us to save room for dessert, so after he brought a container for our leftover pot pie and cleared our table, we were surprised when he brought our check without asking if we wanted coffee or dessert. We were plenty full already, but we probably would have split something sweet.

All in all, Mariner was warm and welcoming, with multiple menu options and helpful, courteous staff. We all know the restaurant business is facing challenges post-COVID, from hiring quality help, to increased food and operational costs, to changing consumer habits, but somehow, the guys behind Mariner and its sister properties are forging ahead. That’s good for people like us who like to eat out.

The Mariner

21 West Main St., Mystic

(860) 536-5200

Find their website at themarinermystic.com

Atmosphere: The blue and white interior boasts nautical art and décor, with knotted ropes, lanterns and ship paraphernalia, while the white wainscoting on the walls makes the place bright and inviting. The windows in the front section overlook busy West Main Street, but in the back, there’s a big bar and booths and tables that allow for more privacy.

Alcohol: Yes

Hours: Open seven days a week at noon; service ends at 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 9 p.m. the rest of the week.

Service: Attentive and efficient

Prices: Starters range from about $14 to $20, entrees about $27 to $38, and New England classics like fish and chips and fired scallops, $24 to $32.

Reservations: Yes

Credit cards: Yes

Handicapped accessible: Yes

Outdoor seating: In season, yes