Makes 7 dozen cookies

These are delicate, ultra-thin wafers. The chocolate chips are the flat kind, called feves or pastilles. They are available at kitchen stores such as Sur La Table and through various online gourmet purveyors.

MAKE AHEAD: The dough needs at least 4 hours in the refrigerator to firm up. The dough can be frozen up to 2 weeks. The cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

½ cup skinned hazelnuts, toasted (see NOTE)

12 whole graham crackers, crushed (may substitute 2 cups graham cracker meal)

8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

½ cup packed dark brown sugar

1 large egg, at room temperature

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

1 cup semisweet chocolate pastilles (flat chips)

Combine the toasted hazelnuts and graham cracker pieces in the bowl of a food processor; pulse until finely chopped but not powdered.

Combine the butter and brown sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer or hand-held electric mixer; beat on low speed to avoid aerating the mixture. Add the egg and beat just until incorporated, then gradually add the nut mixture and the cocoa powder, beating to form a fairly stiff dough.

Divide the dough in half. Roll into 2 1-inch diameter logs; wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to several days.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners.

Working with 1 log at a time, cut the log crosswise into ¼-inch slices. Place slices on the baking sheet about ½ inch apart. Bake 1 sheet at a time for 8 minutes; the cookies will spread slightly. Transfer the baking sheet to the stovetop (off the heat); while the cookies are still quite warm, place 1 chocolate pastille at the center of each cookie; it will melt a little. Let cool completely on the baking sheet before serving or storing, making sure the chocolate is set.

NOTE: Place the nuts in a small, dry skillet; sprinkle lightly with sugar, then toast over medium heat for about 4 minutes, stirring or shaking the skillet often, until they darken in color and become fragrant.

From chef Michel Richard.