The Seehund, under new ownership, thrives with German fare

October 12, 2016 12:00 am • Last Updated: October 13, 2016 5:15 pm

Latkes at The Seehund (Alex Nunes/Special to The Day)

Growing up with a proudly German grandmother, my siblings and I grew accustomed to being taken along — sometimes as less-than-willing participants — to German club holiday parties and restaurants inspired by Deutschland's culinary tradition.

And while there was some appeal to watching giant men switch off between plates of knockwurst, steins and an inspired form of shouting, we all agreed the food was not quite our style. Indeed, I can't recall an occasion when my brother and I marched around the living room beforehand, fists pumping in the air, chanting, "German food! German food!"

But times and people change, and so do menus.

At The Seehund German Pub & Restaurant on Bank Street in New London, where two 20-somethings and St. Bernard alums Jonathan Turgeon and Ryan Benoit took over earlier this year, the food is cooked with commendable imagination and a nod to authentic German fare.

I'll start with a few words about the atmosphere, which is fun, creative and fitting. Upon entering, there's a long bar to the left with a dark but warm motif, television sets, and shelves and taps stocked with spirits, wine and craft beers, some straight from Germany. Immediately to the right is the pub dining area, with a gas-lit fireplace, some high tables and shorter ones set for groups of four. Beyond that is the dining area, adorned with paintings, photos and other artwork celebrating Germanic pastoral living.

Adding to the cozy and eclectic vibe are wood beams along the ceiling, stained and leaded glass windows, and an armored knight standing guard along the back wall.

The dinner menu, available from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., will make you salivate: Sauerbraten ($21) comprised of beef marinated for three days in cider and red wine vinegars, bay leaves and juniper berries, served with ginger gravy, baked mashed potatoes, root vegetables and Swiss chard; Apfel pan scallops ($22) seared and prepared with an apple cider reduction and served with bacon topped Brussel sprouts; and the baked spaetzle and cheese ($12), a mac and cheese with a German noodle twist, made with creamy cheeses and a cornmeal topping.

I came for lunch and began with a mix of appetizers: latkes ($9), a giant Bavarian pretzel ($7) and the knodel pierogies ($10).

The latke potato pancakes were crispy and moist, served with subtly sweet fire-roasted apples that complemented the savory pancakes and sour cream and scallion topping. The giant Bavarian pretzel was enormous, warm, chewy, doughy and delicious, served with bier cheese and a sweet mustard sauce that pushed the experience over the top. And the pierogies were sticky on the outside and fluffy inside. They came filled with creamy potatoes and sprinkled on top with onion and bacon.

For main plates, I tried the Reuben ($12), Bauernhaus sandwich ($12), and the Zweihund, German for "two dogs" ($9).

The corned beef on my Reuben — it also comes with the option of pastrami — was exceptionally fresh, the mustard seeds nearly shouting out. It came served between two slices of thick marble rye toast, buttered and grilled, with Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Russian dressing. The Bauernhaus (German for "farm house") consisted of chicken, although you can have it with ham, Granny Smith apples sliced thin with a cheese grater, fig jam, Swiss cheese and lettuce on a grilled ciabatta roll.

And, finally, the Zweihund: one Frankfurter and one bratwurst, both tasty and near-soft in texture. They were brought to the table on hotdog buns, topped with sauerkraut and caraway seeds, with mustard in a small cup to the side. (Although, be warned: two fat links of German sausage seems to be the point at which your stomach begins to protest.)

To round out my meal, I also tried a couple sides: the herbed spaetzle ($5.50) and Brussel sprouts with bacon ($5). While a traditional German favorite, I have to say I've not always been impressed by spaetzle, which often comes bland and too sticky. This version, creamy and flavorful, was different. The Brussel sprouts were also surprising in how moist they were, with nowhere near the crispiness I'm accustom to. The chopped bacon added outstanding texture and an indulgent taste of fat and saltiness.

Service at The Seehund was truly excellent. Our waitress was warm, friendly and eager to suggest must-try dishes. Food came out in short order, and what wait time there was went by fast with the mix of German music playing at just the right volume in the background. (Although I swear I heard "Volare" at one point, which, in German, should be "Fliegen." But, I suppose, Dean Martin snapping his fingers to "Fliegen" doesn't have quite the same ring to it...)

When in search for a dining experience that's a little out-of-the-box but also comfortably familiar, The Seehund is certainly a can't-lose option. And I should mention my grandmother, who I brought along this time, was undoubtedly impressed.

A giant Bavarian pretzel at The Seehund (Alex Nunes/Special to The Day)

Brussels sprouts with bacon at The Seehund (Alex Nunes/Special to The Day)