Salem's Plum Tomato: Unassuming location, savory food

November 08, 2016 11:00 pm • Last Updated: November 10, 2016 12:50 pm

The Nunzio pizza from The Plum Tomato (Alex Nunes, Special to The Day)

Just south of the roundabout on Route 85 in Salem and squeezed into a plaza with a pawnshop and Subway might not be the first place you'd go looking for a culinary gem. But it is where you'll find The Plum Tomato, and a gem it is indeed.

The interior will by no means blow you away. It's the rather standard pizza joint atmosphere: case at the front with pizza by the slice ready to be heated and served, prep area and ovens behind the counter, and an extensive menu positioned prominently above the register.

Seating is limited — only a couple of small tables and chairs by the entrance — and it's clear most people come to this pizza oasis for takeout. (Based on the friendly and familiar exchanges between customers and staff, it's also safe to say this is the type of place that attracts repeat visitors.)

The folded, seven-panel takeout menu begins with a sort of warning at the top: "Food SO GOOD, It's Addictive. Please Eat Responsibly."

And with vegetarian options such as the "Luciano," lightly breaded eggplant, roasted red peppers, caramelized onion and fresh mozzarella ($15.99 or $20.99 for a large or small), or draws for meat-lovers, including the "Vinny," BBQ sauce, BBQ chicken, bacon, onion, mozzarella and Gorgonzola cheese ($15.99 or $20.99), it's easy to approach the menu with an excitement that's less than contained.

I tried a panoply of menu offerings from the appetizer list, the pizza section and also the sandwich pages: the feta bruschetta ($6.99), the "Kiss of Death" pizza ($15.99 or $20.99), the Nunzio ($13.99 or 18.99), the Magic Garden sandwich (quarter: $6.99, half: $9.99, whole: $17.99) and the Caesar Salami (price the same as the Magic Garden).

Before I get into the details, I'd first say half the fun of The Plum Tomato is reading the clever — and sometimes ridiculous — names and descriptions.

There's the "Elton" sandwich, with roasted chicken, spinach, broccoli, cheddar cheese and ranch dressing, that begins with the introduction: "I hope you don't mind. I hope you don't mind that I put down this bread."

Also the "Sammy The Bull" sandwich with chunks of brick-oven-roasted chicken, bacon, spinach, onions, sliced plum tomato, Gorgonzola, and creamy garlic dressing. That begins with: "You'll be forced to squeal after tasting this combo!"

The most curious of titles would be the "Fabio" pizza, a white pie with mozzarella, broccoli and ricotta, and the "Buttafucco" red pizza with tomato sauce, grated Romano and anchovies. However, a little indication of the connection to the presumable namesakes would have been, let's say, more interesting...

In terms of what I tried, the feta bruschetta was not too different than a regular pizza at The Plum Tomato save for the fact that it comes on a thicker crust ("Brickini" bread, it's called) that's a little closer to Chicago deep dish than the chewy, New York-style crust found elsewhere on the menu. It comes in narrow-cut, rectangular slices and topped with a delightful mix of olive oil, fresh garlic, Romano, basil, plum tomatoes, feta and mozzarella cheese. The marinara dipping sauce on the side was not too necessary, in my opinion.

The "Kiss of Death" was probably my favorite pizza. The name comes from the fact that the ingredients this pie is built around will essentially make your smooches considerably far from appealing. It's a pungent but delicious pairing of caramelized onions, a liberal amount of full cloves of roasted garlic, scallions and Gorgonzola cheese. But, as the name implies, buyer beware.

The "Nunzio" was a more traditional pizza for people who like cured meats: a familiar but no less well-executed mix of pepperoni and distinctly peppery sausage over mozzarella and red sauce.

Sandwiches either come on the crispy "Brickini" flat bread described earlier or "Fatti" bread, which is a more standard grinder roll, pressed, toasted and served warm.

The Magic Garden was essentially a jacked-up salad wedged between two pieces of Brickini bread. A safe and tasty option for vegetarians, it consists of spinach, mesclun greens, sprouts, black olives, roasted red and green peppers, onion, ricotta and provolone cheese.

The Caesar Salami, marketed as so good it "could cause another Independent Council investigation," was a commendable take on the traditional salami sandwich, with nicely paired fillings: Genoa salami, onions, roasted red peppers, hot cherry peppers, sliced plum tomato, provolone cheese, mesclun greens and The Plum Tomato's house-made Caesar dressing (prepared with raw egg).

While people don't traditionally go to a takeout place with the expectation of top-notch service, I found the two employees on to be very friendly, polite and more than gracious as they waited patiently for me to sift indecisively through the extensive menu.

It's hard to tell the hidden-gem pizza places from the run-of-the-mill joints, and driving by The Plum Tomato, your first instinct might not be to stop in. But if you do, my guess is you'll be pleased with the decision.

Bruschetta from The Plum Tomato (Alex Nunes, Special to The Day)